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Bathroom Basics | Bathroom Repairs | Bathroom Planning | Bathroom Fitting | Bathroom Surfaces | Bathroom A to Z
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Bathroom Planning - WASHBASINS
Basins can be hung on a wall or placed on a pedestal or, as is becoming increasingly common, fitted into a unit in your bathroom, in a run like a kitchen. Some basins are simply placed on top of a unit, to look unfitted.
INSTALLING A PEDESTAL WASHBASIN
The most commonly used washbasin is the pedestal type. This requires the basin to be secured to the wall while resting on a matching china pedestal, which provides balanced central support. The pedestal incorporates a void for hiding the supply pipes and waste.
Pedestal washbasins are available in lots of wonderful designs and different colours. There is also a wide choice of taps and mixers with plugs or pop-up wastes, so remember to purchase the taps and waste at the same time as the basin, to ensure you get exactly what you want. It makes sense to fit the taps before you install the basin, after which access will be awkward to say the least.
If you are simply replacing an existing pedestal basin, the process is relatively simple. Mark the position of the basin on the wall, using the pedestal to position it 1. Screw the basin to the wall 2, or hang it on brackets depending on the type. Slide the pedestal underneath 3 and connect the supply pipes to the taps 4. Fit the trap to the basin waste 5. Screw in the plughole 6 and attach the plug. Make a mastic seal around the pedestal top and the basin base 7. Once you have done all your tiling and flooring, you can seal where the basin is in contact with the wall and around the base of the pedestal mounted basins.
Sometimes, things are a little less straightforward. Some new mixer taps won't attach to old tap connectors, and require simple pipework alterations. If you are re-siting a pedestal basin, you may have to alter and conceal the supply pipework and waste pipe. These could be hidden behind the skirting if the wall is studwork, or chased in if the wall is solid. Ensure that rodding eyes for servicing are fitted to both ends of the waste pipe run. Remember, too, that the waste pipe requires a slight fall –a minimum of 6mm ('/in) to every 300mm (12in) of pipe run. The total pipe run length should not exceed 3m (approximately 10ft).
New pipe runs are best fitted to the wall surface, then boxed in. Take care not to damage the pipes when fitting, and ensure it is detachable for access.
FIXING TO THE WALL
If you are attaching a new washbasin to a solid wall, make sure the screw fixings or mounting brackets are properly anchored with plugs. If attaching to a hollow stud wall, the screw positions may not align with the studs. In this case cut out the plasterboard 8 and screw a softwood batten or piece of plywood to the studs 9 to hold the basin.
TOP TIP To make sure everything will fit perfectly, it pays to temporarily set up your basin and run all your pipework. Then you can disconnect the basin for any wall repairs and floor covering to be completed, before making the final connections and sealing around the pedestal base.
INSTALLING A WALL-HUNG BASIN
As they are usually quite small, wall-hung basins are particularly useful for a small space, such as a separate toilet. Some wall-hung basins are designed to fit into the wall itself, but the plumbing involved with these can be a bit complex. Most wall-hung basins are fitted onto a concealed wall-mounting bracket, which must be fixed to the timber wall studs or a softwood batten attached to the studwork, or to brick- or blockwork. Concealing the pipework may involve running the pipes in the studwork or chasing them into the brickwork.
Alternatively, the basin could be set against a false wall, in which the plumbing is hidden. A chrome waste trap would look better than a plastic one. Or you could conceal the plumbing in a purpose-made bathroom cabinet.
The waste pipe needs to be less than 2m (6ft 6in) long, otherwise the water in the trap could be siphoned out, allowing unpleasant smells from the drain to enter your bathroom. (In the trade, known as 'pulling the trap'.) If the run has to be longer than this, you'll need to fit an anti-siphon trap or use larger waste pipe.
For most people, a wall-hung basin needs to be fixed 800mm (2ft 8in) above the floor, with a minimum 1.1m (3ft 8in) clear width to allow for elbow room when washing.
Mark the position for the basin on the wall 1. If necessary, fix an extra noggin at the back of the wall to support the brackets. Position the pipes at the back and through the plasterboard. On the front of the wall draw a level pencil line where the brackets are to be fixed corresponding with the noggin at the back. Screw the brackets in place 2. Attach the taps and waste pipe to the basin 3. Hook the basin onto the brackets 4, then screw the basin to the wall through the holes on the underside. Hold the waste assembly in place and fit. Now enjoy 5.
Where space is especially tight, such as in a cloakroom that makes the most of limited floor space, a well-designed wall-hung corner basin might be the answer. Some designs incorporate a small shelf and even a hanging rail 6. Corner basins are fixed in the same way as ordinary wall-hung basins. Another possibility is a wall-hung basin with an integral unit 7, which allows for the waste pipework to be routed through the wall, rather than having to cut holes in the unit. Also, instead of needing to buy an expensive chrome basin waste fitting, you can simply slide a U-shaped metal sleeve over the plastic pipework, which is also an added support for the basin.
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