Bathroom Fitting - Installing a purpose built shower

Probably the most efficient and attractive shower for the average home is a purpose-built shower enclosure 1. The ideal location is a corner of the bathroom, where two sides are already formed so you only need to install a corner unit, or build a third wall and fit a glass door across the opening. From a practical point of view, I prefer to build a third block or stud wall and install a vitreous china shower tray. I can then cover all three walls with light coloured tiles that reflect as much light as possible. There is no easy answer to the cleaning question. To keep everything spotless and sparkling, the tiles, grouting, and mastic all require regular maintenance.

Bathroom Tip: There are lots of shower door designs, but it makes sense to select a pivot door of some kind, which, when opened, will allow the water to run down inside the enclosure 2, rather than onto the bathroom floor.

Once the wall is built, make a solid, perfectly level base for the shower tray to sit on 3. Use 75 x 50mm (3 x 2in) timber and 19mm (3/in) exterior-grade plywood. Place the shower tray on the base and mark out the plughole 4. Remove the tray. Mark out a section on the plywood to take the trap and waste pipe, then, using a jigsaw, cut this out 5. You can now fit the trap and waste pipe to the shower tray so that it will sit in the void area below it 6. The shower waste can exit through the new wall 7, and be concealed behind a false skirting, which will allow for access if necessary. Fit rodding eyes to the waste pipe so that any blockages can be cleared easily.

         

I always cut a second piece of plywood to protect the fitted shower tray from possible damage as I tile. To allow space for tiling right down to the shower tray, make the protective cover a loose fit 8.

A stud wall allows for the pipework to be concealed easily within it. The trick is not to clad the rear face of the wall until all the pipework is complete. Use the template supplied with the shower mixer or draw round the faceplate 1, then cut a hole 12mm ('/in) within the outline. Insert the mixer bracket through the hole and fix it in place with the screws supplied 2. For a solid brick- or blockwork wall, you will need to chase out channels to conceal the pipework. Insert the mixer unit and screw it to the bracket 3. Connect the hot and cold water pipes to the mixer unit 4. Fix a copper pipe to the top of the mixer unit to take the water to the shower head. For most shower heads, it will need to exit through the wall via an elbow fitting, with the tail protruding into the shower enclosure approximately 100mm (4in) from the wall face.

You can now tile the walls. Once the grouting and sealant have been applied, assemble the shower mixer 5 and head. Large shower heads, the ones that give you a real drenching, are secured through the wall and attached to the water pipes by means of a tap connector 6. Finally, fix and hang your choice of door, or a curtain.

Bathroom Tip: Tape over the open tails to avoid any debris blocking the pipes.