Before a pedestal sink takes its place, the wall behind it needs to be shored up to hold its weight. Then the installation goes easy.

To install a pedestal sink you need the following material:

• Adjustable wrench
• Electric drill
• Hacksaw
• Measuring tape
• Pedestal sink with mounting bracket
• P-trap, tailpiece, and slip-nut fittings
• Ratchet with sockets
• Scrap plywood or 2-x-10 for blocking
• Wood screws

Mounting the sink to the wall

After the wall is reinforced and repaired, the sink can be installed. Some sinks require a separate bracket that is installed first, but others mount directly to the wall. These directions are for a sink with a bracket. You can skip those steps if the sink you’re installing doesn’t have a bracket. Figure 1 shows a typical installation.

1. Position the bracket on the wall and use the bracket as a template to mark the location for the mounting lag bolts.

To find the exact location of the mounting bracket, consult the roughing-in dimensions provided by the manufacturer.

Make sure the bracket is level.

Pedestal sinks are hung on a wall bracket or secured directly to the wall and supported by the pedestal.

2. Drill pilot holes through the layout marks on the wall into the wall reinforcement.

Make the holes about 1/8 inch smaller than the lag bolts supplied by the manufacturer. Lag bolts are large screws with a square or hex head.

3. Install the bracket with the lag bolts.

4. Hang the basin on the wall bracket and then install the additional mounting screws to hold the sink to the bracket and wall.

If the sink does not have a mounting bracket, install it directly to the wall with the fasteners provided by the manufacturer.

5. Test-fit the pedestal, mark its location, and then move it safely out of the way.

Installing the P-trap

With the sink on the wall, you can now install the P-trap. The P-trap is the pipe that connects the sink to the house drain. The U-shape of this pipe is the trap that retains enough water to prevent sewer gases from entering the bathroom. The P-trap is adjustable and can slide up and down on the pipe leaving the sink drain. The other end of the P-trap can also slide in and out of the fitting on the wall.

To install the P-trap, you may have to cut the tailpiece that protrudes from the pop-up assembly if the P-trap doesn’t align with the drain that comes out of the wall.

Referring to Figure 2, follow these steps to install the P-trap:

• Slide the short side of the P-trap onto the tailpiece that drops down from the sink drain. Move the P-trap up or down to align the trap arm with opening in the wall.

Use a hacksaw to cut the tailpiece shorter whenever the P-trap can’t be moved higher up the tailpiece and the trap arm is below the wall drain fitting. Purchase a longer tailpiece whenever the P-trap is above the wall drain fitting when attached to the end of the tailpiece.

• Take the lower part of the P-trap apart and insert the trap arm into the wall drain fitting as far as it will go.
• Pull the trap arm out of the wall fitting until it aligns with the top of U-shaped portion of the trap.

If the trap arm comes completely out of the wall before it can be attached to the trap, purchase a longer trap arm. If the rap arm is in the wall fitting as far as it will go and extends past the U-shaped part of the trap, cut it shorter with the hacksaw.

• Insert the trap arm back into the wall drain, move it into alignment with the trap, and thread on (but don’t tighten) the slip nut.
• When the trap parts are joined together, tighten the slip nuts on the tail piece and the wall drain fittings.

Attaching riser tubes to the faucet

After the P-trap is installed, you can turn your attention to attaching the riser tubes (supply lines) to the faucet tailpieces, using the compression nuts that came with the faucet. See Figure 2

The P-trap and riser tubes

The riser tubes connect the faucet to the stop valves. Here are a couple of pointers for attaching the tubes to the faucet:

• Snug up the nuts by hand
• Bend or loop the riser tubes so that they fit between the stop valves and the wall before tightening them with a wrench.

Finishing up

The moment of truth has arrived; you have to turn the water at the shut-off valves and the faucet and test for leaks in the supply lines and fittings leading to the faucet and in the drain lines and fittings. When everything is drip free, you can install the pedestal by simply positioning it properly beneath the sink and securing it to the floor with a wood screw.

Don’t over tighten the pedestal mounting screw because doing so may crack the pedestal base.

The pedestal is held in place with a wood screw.

Last, you can caulk any gaps or voids between the wall and the basin and remove any excess caulk with a wet rug.

INSTALLATION

When fitting a bath you have to plan the order in which you will need to work and install any necessary new pipe work. Measure the bath, pipe and bath waste positions, and mark them clearly on the wall in pencil for easy reference.

You may need to run new 22mm (7/8in) supply pipes or add spurs to the existing runs. Do this before you actually install the bath, in readiness for connecting to the flexible pipes attached to the bath taps or mixer bath / shower tap 1.

ATTACHING THE FEET

Before you do anything else, you need to attach the feet assembly. Turn the bath upside down; keep the bath in its packaging so it doesn’t get scratched. On an old-style, cast-iron bath the feet, normally of a ball and claw design, are simply fitted onto predetermined positions using the bolts provided. A acrylic bath may have a supporting frame, with legs attached, which has to be fitted before the bath is installed. On pressed-steel baths, the legs are either similarly bolted on 2, or stuck to the base by means of an adhesive pad attached to the leg assembly. The leg positions are important, so check with the instructions that you have correctly fitted the leg assembly. You may have to adjust the leg heights to suit an uneven floor when you finally install the bath.

FITTING THE TAPS

It is extremely difficult to fit the taps and the waste and overflow once a bath is in place, so you need to this before you finally position it. Slip a plastic or rubber sealing gasket over the tap or mixer tail, then pop this through the tap hole, so the gasket (which will ensure a waterproof seal) sits between the tap and the bath. Slip a top-hat washer over the tail 3,

then tighten the back nut onto the tail to fix the tap or mixer tap body to the bath 4.

Connect the flexible 22mm (7/8in) pipe tap connector 5.

FITTING THE WASTE AND OVERFLOW

Most baths accept a combined waste-and-overflow unit. The waste is the plughole that removes the bath water, and the overflow prevents the house flooding if you leave the bath running while you have a cup of tea. There are basically two types: a compression unit, and a banjo unit. The banjo unit must have the overflow section fitted before the trap, while the compression unit fits directly to the trap itself.

To fit a banjo waste unit, first attach the overflow pipe to its inlet. Fit the washer seal over the overflow grille. Insert the threaded overflow boss from the underside of the bath through the overflow hole and screw the overflow grille onto it 6.

When fitting the waste outlet, slip the rubber washer over the tail and then insert it into the bath waste hole 1.

TOP TIP – Add a bead of silicone mastic sealant to the washer and waste before inserting into the waste hole 2.

Hold the waste fitting, with its washer in place, beneath the bath waste hole 3,

then screw the waste outlet into it. Wrap several turns of PTFE tape around the thread of the waste fitting 4,

then tighten the bath trap nut onto the threaded tail of the waste 5.

TOP TIP – To avoid damaging the chrome, wrap a cloth around the outlet grille before tightening with grips 6.

ENSURING THE BATH IS LEVEL

As a guide for levelling the bath, make pencil marks along the wall with the aid of a spirit level 7.

When everything is ready, check the final position of the bath with the spirit level along both the length and width 8.

Most height adjustments are made by turning the adjustable legs up or down 9.

Cast-iron baths don’t have adjustable legs, but fine adjustment can be made using the bolts and fine washers or packers.

SUPPORTING THE BATH

Try to bear in mind the amount of weight a bath full of water would weigh, then add your own body weight. As a necessary precaution – and in order not to surprise anyone in the room below with an unannounced visit – we suggest that you strengthen the floor either by fixing 19mm (3/4in) plywood under the bath / shower bath, or simply fit two boards beneath the legs in order to spread the weight over a greater area of floor 10.

The added bonus of doing this is that you reduce the movement levels of the bath between its full and empty states, which enables you to make a much more durable and effective water seal between the bath and wall.

MAKING THE SEAL

Once the movement levels between the bath and surrounding walls have been minimized by supporting the bath properly, it’s time to make the waterproof seal between the bath and the adjacent walls. An effective seal is paramount to prevent damp problems occurring later on.

Ensure both surfaces are completely dust and grease free. Grease shouldn’t be a problem, though, if you’re fitting a new bath to new tiles. To get the right finish on the mastic, cut the nozzle to the required width of mastic. Fit the tube in the applicator and start applying from the corner, if there is one, outwards. Keeping your hand steady, move slowly but continuously in the desired direction 11,

using a clean damp cloth to wipe the sealant. While the mastic is fresh, dip a finger in some soapy water and run it slowly over the mastic to effect a smooth shape and ensure contact with both surfaces 12.

A small bowl of equal quantities of washing-up liquid and water is all you will need. Alternatively, try using the handle of a fork or teaspoon to shape the mastic. Allow the mastic to dry for at least 24 hours before using the bath.

It’s important to use good-quality silicone mastic sealant, as it will incorporate essential ingredients, such as elasticity, colour retention and anti-fungal inhibitors.

Fitting a Shower Curtain

If you are using a bath mixer to shower with, a low-cost solution is to fit a shower rail and curtain. Fix the shower head holder at the right height, then screw the shower curtain rail brackets to the wall higher than this by drilling into the tiled area, taking care not damage the tiles. Secure the brackets to each wall with the screws supplied (you’ll need to plug a solid wall).1. Attach the curtain to the rings – voila an instant shower screen.

Fitting a Folding Bath Screen

A bath screen that folds is useful as you can push it out of the way when you are not showering. The hinged screen comes ready to fix to the wall, with rubber sealing strips at the bottom already fitted. Follow the instructions for fitting to the wall above. Slot in the bath screen then unfold it. As you unfold, the rubber seal should fit snugly against the bath edge. You can start leak-free showering straightaway 2.

Fitting / Installing a Shower Bath

Laying the groundwork for your shower enclosure

Before you begin installing a shower enclosure, you need to address a couple of points. First, the shower requires a wood framing to support the walls of the shower enclosure (see Figure 1). If the shower is placed in a corner only, fewer walls must be constructed. In either case, the manufacturer will supply a layout plan for the shower enclosure. Follow it carefully. The wall studs are usually placed closer together than on a standard wall.

Fig 1: Non-bearing partition walls support the shower stall wall panels

One advantage to installing this type of shower enclosure is that the showers wall panels are mounted directly to the wall studs, so drywall or backerboard isn’t necessary. Before the shower stall is installed, you can plan ahead and install wood backing for grab bars. Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions to find out the type of backing that is needed to support a grab bar. In most cases, solid backing of 2-x-6 lumber nailed between the wall studs is required.

Second, you’ll want to hire a plumber to install the rough-in plumbing. The shower enclosure requires a 2-inch drain centered in the enclosure. The rough-in dimensions give the exact measurements for its location. Unless you’re experienced with plumbing, this part of the project is best left to a professional plumber. Have the plumber also install the drain fittings in the shower receptor that meet the local plumbing code requirements.

Installing a shower enclosure

To install a shower enclosure, you need these materials:

»  2-x-4s or 2-x-6s
»  2-inch masking tape
»  Carpenter’s square
»  Dropcloth
»  Electric drill
»  Hammer
»  Hole saw or jigsaw with fine-tooth blade (32 teeth per inch)
»  Level
»  Measuring tape
»  Pliers
»  Putty knife
»  Safety glasses
»  Screwdrivers
»  Silicone sealant (for shower door installation)
»  Utility knife
»  Woodworking tools

Follow these instructions to install a shower enclosure.

1. Open the packaging and identify all the parts and components of the enclosure.

2. Place the shower receptor in the enclosure and check that it’s level and doesn’t rock back and forth.

You may have to install shims under the receptor. Put the necessary shims in place and retest the level of the shower. When the surface is solid, remove the shims one at a time, apply construction adhesive to them, and replace them.

3. Use galvanized roofing nails to secure the receptor to the wall framing (see Figure 2).

Fig 2: The shower receptor is secured to the framing with galvanized nails.

Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation and drive the nails through the predrilled flange holes or place the nail against the top of the flange

4. Position the panels in the enclosure.

Some kits have wall panels that interlock with one another to form watertight seals. In this case, follow the manufacturer’s directions and position the panels in the enclosure in the proper sequence so they can interlock.

5. Check that the panels fit snugly against the wall framing.

The panel at the shower valve end of the enclosure can’t be placed against the studs yet because of the rough-in plumbing.

6. Mark the location of the shower valve and shower riser pipe by making a cardboard template of the location of the valve and shower head pipe.

7. Place the template on the shower enclosure panel and drill a pilot hole at the center of the cutout to guide the hole saw.

Use a hole saw or jigsaw with a fine-tooth saw blade to make the holes for the valve controls and the shower head pipe.

8. Install the shower wall panel on which the shower valve is located.

Check that all panels are properly aligned and square and the shower valve and shower head pipe are properly aligned.

9. Fasten the panels to the wall framing with galvanized roofing nails (see Figure 3).

Whenever there is a gap between the wall stud and the shower wall panel, insert a wood shim before driving the nail.

Fig 3: Fasten the wall to the wall studs with galvanized nails; shim where necessary.

10. Apply silicone caulk to all joints in the shower enclosure

Whenever there is a gap between the wall stud and the shower wall panel, insert a wood shim before driving the nail.

Shower doors are sold as separate items, usually not a part of a shower enclosure kit in most cases but here at victoriaplumb we do sell both shower doors and shower panels together to make a shower enclosure.

Shower doors p rotect the room and floor from water spray — a more permanent barrier than a shower curtain. Carefully read the installation instructions for the type of shower door you choose and identify all the parts and components.

Visit Victoriaplumbs Shower section to view our impressive range of Shower Doors – click here

Bathroom Tip: There are lots of shower door designs, but it makes sense to select a pivot door of some kind, which, when opened, will allow the water to run down inside the enclosure 2, rather than onto the bathroom floor.

Once the wall is built, make a solid, perfectly level base for the shower tray to sit on 3. Use 75 x 50mm (3 x 2in) timber and 19mm (3/in) exterior-grade plywood. Place the shower tray on the base and mark out the plughole 4. Remove the tray. Mark out a section on the plywood to take the trap and waste pipe, then, using a jigsaw, cut this out 5. You can now fit the trap and waste pipe to the shower tray so that it will sit in the void area below it 6. The shower waste can exit through the new wall 7, and be concealed behind a false skirting, which will allow for access if necessary. Fit rodding eyes to the waste pipe so that any blockages can be cleared easily.

I always cut a second piece of plywood to protect the fitted shower tray from possible damage as I tile. To allow space for tiling right down to the shower tray, make the protective cover a loose fit 8.

A stud wall allows for the pipework to be concealed easily within it. The trick is not to clad the rear face of the wall until all the pipework is complete. Use the template supplied with the shower mixer or draw round the faceplate 1, then cut a hole 12mm (‘/in) within the outline. Insert the mixer bracket through the hole and fix it in place with the screws supplied 2. For a solid brick- or blockwork wall, you will need to chase out channels to conceal the pipework. Insert the mixer unit and screw it to the bracket 3. Connect the hot and cold water pipes to the mixer unit 4. Fix a copper pipe to the top of the mixer unit to take the water to the shower head. For most shower heads, it will need to exit through the wall via an elbow fitting, with the tail protruding into the shower enclosure approximately 100mm (4in) from the wall face.

You can now tile the walls. Once the grouting and sealant have been applied, assemble the shower mixer 5 and head. Large shower heads, the ones that give you a real drenching, are secured through the wall and attached to the water pipes by means of a tap connector 6. Finally, fix and hang your choice of door, or a curtain.

Bathroom Tip: Tape over the open tails to avoid any debris blocking the pipes.

If you have a bathroom in an older house with galvanized steel pipes, you’re better off calling in a plumber who will have the specialized tools to cut and thread this type of pipe.

Most of the newer shower valves install the same way. This project illustrates the basic steps to rough in a shower valve, which is unique in that it has additional water jets in the shower valve assembly and an oversize opening that makes replacing an old shower valve easier. The jets not only tickle your middle with water, but for remodeling purposes, they’re covered by a larger-thannormal escutcheon plate. The escutcheon conceals the control handle and jets, and allows you to cut a large opening in the wall.

The particular shower valve you choose may not be exactly like this unit, but the installation is basically the same. Manufacturers include installation instructions with their units along with the rough-in dimensions.

To replace a shower valve, you need these materials:

»  Emery cloth tow
»  Flux (to coat copper joints when soldering)
»  Hand saw, jigsaw, or spiral-cut saw
»  Pliers
»  Propane torch
»  Putty knife
»  Screwdriver
»  Shower valve
»  Solder or plastic pipe cement

Follow these steps to install a new shower valve. When you’re replacing an old shower valve, rather than installing a new one, do Step 1 and then jump to Step 9.

1. Turn off the water.

2. Remove the escutcheon from the existing valve.

Take off the control handle first. Then remove the screws holding the plate against the wall. If the escutcheon was installed with caulk, score it with a utility knife. Try to avoid scratching tile you plan to leave in place.

3. Use the template provided by the manufacturer or the escutcheon plate from the new valve to locate the position of the new hole in the wall.

If there is no template trace around the escutcheon, use a pencil to make a new line about 1/2 inch inside the escutcheon profile line (see Figure 1).

Figure 1: Use the escutcheon as a template to position and cut the hole to access the pipes.

4. Use a hand saw, jigsaw, or spiral-cut saw (see Figure 2 ) to cut the opening in the wall for the new valve by following the outline of the cover plate.

Carefully check inside a wall for the location of the existing pipes before you cut into it. To get a good view, shine a flashlight on the hole as you hold a small mirror in the hole. Look for electrical lines and water and vent pipes that may be in the way.

Figure 2: You can use a spiral-cut saw to cut the opening for the valve.

5. If the old pipes are copper, unsolder the valve body from the water pipes.

6. Heat the valve close to the pipe, gripping the valve body with pliers.

7. As the solder melts, twist the valve body and pull it off the pipe. Do the same for the remaining pipes.

Wear leather gloves because the copper will be hot.

Plastic pipes can’t be removed from the valve body and must be cut. Use a hacksaw to cut them as close to the valve body as possible.

8. The new valve requires support. If no blocking is behind the old valve, cut a 2-x-4 and insert it between the wall studs behind the valve.

Check the roughing-in dimensions for your particular valve and adjust the position of the support so that the valve protrudes the proper distance from the wall.

9. To connect the valve to the water supply pipes, first clean the ends and inside of the pipes with flux.

Clean the end of the pipe with emery cloth and then use a wire brush to clean inside the fitting. Apply the flux to the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting. Flux prevents oxidation, helping the solder form a good bond.

10. Insert supply pipes into the valve body.

11. Consult the instructions for the lengths of the supply piping that leads to the water jet assembly.

12. Cut, clean, and flux these fittings, and then cut the shower riser to length and insert it into the assembly.

13. Check alignment and then solder the unit together (see Figure 3).

Figure 3: Solder the water supply pipes to the valve body.

14. Test the unit for leaks.

If this is a new installation, screw a 1/2-inch galvanized plug into the shower head pipe so you can test the unit for leaks without the shower sprinkling water all over the place.

15. If the tub or shower is already in place, install the shower head.

16. Turn on the water and check for leaks.

If there are leaks, turn off the water, drain the valve, and resolder or glue the leaking joint.

17. Install the escutcheon and control handles (see Figure 4).

Figure 4:Installing the cutcheon plate and control handles.

To purchase shower valves please view our shower valves section. Click here

Electric showers have definite advantages and disadvantages. They are relatively cheap to buy, and fairly simple to install. Requiring only a cold supply direct from the rising main, there is no need for cold water storage. The water is heated instantly, as it is forced through the shower unit’s heating element under mains water pressure. A built-in, thermostatically controlled safety valve controls the temperature, and will switch itself off automatically if the water pressure is too low. Ensure that a non-return valve and an isolating valve are fitted to the supply pipe to allow for easy servicing (see diagram below) or unit replacement, should the need arise.

Combining a corner shower surround with an electric unit makes for an instant shower in more than one sense, as you don’t need to build an extra wall to make the enclosure. The main advantage of a clear-glass surround is that it looks wonderful while letting in lots of light 1. The big disadvantage, though, is that it may take a bit of effort to keep it sparkling, especially if you live in a hard water area and you don’t have a water softener. If you squeegee the glass off after each shower, however, and train the rest of the family to do the same, you can reduce the major cleaning work considerably.

Water and Electricity Supply
1. separate circuit from consumer unit 2. mains water supply 3. non-return valve 4. shower unit	5. ceiling-mounted double-pole isolating switch 6. mains electric supply (via double-pole switch)

The flow of water through the shower unit triggers a switch to turn on the element that heats the water as it passes through. Because there’s so little time to heat the flowing water, a powerful electrical load is required, anything from 6-10.8 KW. This must be supplied by a separate radial circuit, protected by a 30 milliamp RCD 2.

The electric supply cable must be a minimum 10mm2 twin (two-core) and earth cable. The circuit needs a 45 amp double-pole isolating switch, which is usually a ceiling-mounted type as shown in the diagram opposite. The switch must have a mechanical on-off indicator as well as a neon one. It is also imperative that the shower unit and all metal pipes are bonded to earth. If you are in any doubt about the wiring requirements ask a qualified electrician to advise you. Indeed, you will almost certainly need to get an electrician to bring the new circuit for the shower from the consumer unit.

Once the electricity supply has been installed, fit a single 15mm (%in) pipe to bring water direct from the cold supply to the wall. Fix the shower unit to the tiled wall (see page 121 for fixing to tiles). With the power still switched off, feed the electric cable through the backplate of the unit and wire it up 3, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Join the water inlet pipe to the unit and tighten with a compression fitting 4. Fit the cover and attach the shower hose to the outlet at the base 5. Attach the shower head to the wall, high enough to avoid any back-siphonage 6.

Bathroom Tip: Buy a shower waste with a pull-out section so you can unclog the waste overflow regularly before a build-up of hair can cause blockage problems 7.

There is a downside to this dream, though – it will mean ‘tanking’ the room in order to make it absolutely watertight, otherwise I might be showering in my living room! Tanking is a job for a professional, however. So if you share my dream, but are worried about water going everywhere, it might be a better idea to instead fit a glass panel to enclose your showering area 1.

Some of the latest showers have taken the shower cubicle to new heights. Some even have the shower fittings attached in one piece to one of the columns 2, so fitting the shower becomes a real doddle 3. All you have to do is attach the hot and cold supply to the appropriate pipes (that is after you have done all the hard graft of ensuring the pipes and drainage are in the right position). Other designs have evolved into a complete walk-in enclosure 4, which creates the illusion of a wet room, without any doors to close behind you.

INSTALLING A PEDESTAL WASHBASIN

The most commonly used washbasin is the pedestal type. This requires the basin to be secured to the wall while resting on a matching china pedestal, which provides balanced central support. The pedestal incorporates a void for hiding the supply pipes and waste.

Pedestal washbasins are available in lots of wonderful designs and different colours. There is also a wide choice of taps and mixers with plugs or pop-up wastes, so remember to purchase the taps and waste at the same time as the basin, to ensure you get exactly what you want. It makes sense to fit the taps before you install the basin, after which access will be awkward to say the least.

If you are simply replacing an existing pedestal basin, the process is relatively simple. Mark the position of the basin on the wall, using the pedestal to position it 1. Screw the basin to the wall 2, or hang it on brackets depending on the type. Slide the pedestal underneath 3 and connect the supply pipes to the taps 4. Fit the trap to the basin waste 5. Screw in the plughole 6 and attach the plug. Make a mastic seal around the pedestal top and the basin base 7. Once you have done all your tiling and flooring, you can seal where the basin is in contact with the wall and around the base of the pedestal mounted basins.

Sometimes, things are a little less straightforward. Some new mixer taps won’t attach to old tap connectors, and require simple pipework alterations. If you are re-siting a pedestal basin, you may have to alter and conceal the supply pipework and waste pipe. These could be hidden behind the skirting if the wall is studwork, or chased in if the wall is solid. Ensure that rodding eyes for servicing are fitted to both ends of the waste pipe run. Remember, too, that the waste pipe requires a slight fall –a minimum of 6mm (‘/in) to every 300mm (12in) of pipe run. The total pipe run length should not exceed 3m (approximately 10ft).

New pipe runs are best fitted to the wall surface, then boxed in. Take care not to damage the pipes when fitting, and ensure it is detachable for access.

FIXING TO THE WALL

If you are attaching a new washbasin to a solid wall, make sure the screw fixings or mounting brackets are properly anchored with plugs. If attaching to a hollow stud wall, the screw positions may not align with the studs. In this case cut out the plasterboard 8 and screw a softwood batten or piece of plywood to the studs 9 to hold the basin.

TOP TIP To make sure everything will fit perfectly, it pays to temporarily set up your basin and run all your pipework. Then you can disconnect the basin for any wall repairs and floor covering to be completed, before making the final connections and sealing around the pedestal base.

INSTALLING A WALL-HUNG BASIN

As they are usually quite small, wall-hung basins are particularly useful for a small space, such as a separate toilet. Some wall-hung basins are designed to fit into the wall itself, but the plumbing involved with these can be a bit complex. Most wall-hung basins are fitted onto a concealed wall-mounting bracket, which must be fixed to the timber wall studs or a softwood batten attached to the studwork, or to brick- or blockwork. Concealing the pipework may involve running the pipes in the studwork or chasing them into the brickwork.

Alternatively, the basin could be set against a false wall, in which the plumbing is hidden. A chrome waste trap would look better than a plastic one. Or you could conceal the plumbing in a purpose-made bathroom cabinet.

The waste pipe needs to be less than 2m (6ft 6in) long, otherwise the water in the trap could be siphoned out, allowing unpleasant smells from the drain to enter your bathroom. (In the trade, known as ‘pulling the trap’.) If the run has to be longer than this, you’ll need to fit an anti-siphon trap or use larger waste pipe.

For most people, a wall-hung basin needs to be fixed 800mm (2ft 8in) above the floor, with a minimum 1.1m (3ft 8in) clear width to allow for elbow room when washing.

Mark the position for the basin on the wall 1. If necessary, fix an extra noggin at the back of the wall to support the brackets. Position the pipes at the back and through the plasterboard. On the front of the wall draw a level pencil line where the brackets are to be fixed corresponding with the noggin at the back. Screw the brackets in place 2. Attach the taps and waste pipe to the basin 3. Hook the basin onto the brackets 4, then screw the basin to the wall through the holes on the underside. Hold the waste assembly in place and fit. Now enjoy 5.

Where space is especially tight, such as in a cloakroom that makes the most of limited floor space, a well-designed wall-hung corner basin might be the answer. Some designs incorporate a small shelf and even a hanging rail 6. Corner basins are fixed in the same way as ordinary wall-hung basins. Another possibility is a wall-hung basin with an integral unit 7, which allows for the waste pipework to be routed through the wall, rather than having to cut holes in the unit. Also, instead of needing to buy an expensive chrome basin waste fitting, you can simply slide a U-shaped metal sleeve over the plastic pipework, which is also an added support for the basin.