2; this will weaken the tile considerably. Make sure that you only drill through the tile, and try not to damage the wall behind. Using a hammer and small, sharp cold chisel, and working from the weakened centre to the outside edges, carefully break out the tile

3. It’s worth taking the time to sharpen the cold chisel on a grinder before you start.

TOP SAFETY TIP Flying ceramic slivers could very easily blind or cut you, so always wear goggles and gloves for this task. Take your time over the removal process, to avoid damaging any of the surrounding tiles. Next, remove any old adhesive and brush off any dust, ready for fixing the replacement tile. Butter a bed of adhesive onto the back of the tile 4 and press it into position flush with the surrounding tiles

5. Clean off any excess adhesive and leave to set before grouting.

Grouting

You can use one of the ready-mixed grouts or buy powder and mix it with water to form a paste the consistency of double cream. Apply the paste to the tile surface, using a tiler’s rubber float to press the grout into the joints

6. Wipe the grout off with a damp sponge before it sets. When it has set, run something smooth, such as a plastic pen cover, over the joints to compress and shape them. When the grout has dried, polish the tiles using a soft, dry cloth. Leave a newly tiled shower for a week before you use it. After doing such a good job, I think you deserve to treat yourself to a proper night out on the tiles!

Painting Bathroom Tiles: The most dramatic change you can make to unsightly old tiles is to paint them. You can use ordinary paint on tiles, but the best results will be achieved if you use a specialist tile paint, several types of which are readily available. You need to apply a special tile primer before you paint. It’s always wise to research this option properly and test samples on a spare tile to see the finish and colour before you start the job. First, sand the surface to create a key for the paint. Clean off any dust with clean water, then dry thoroughly. Protect the surface around the area to be painted. Apply the primer and then the paint, either over the whole tiled surface or in a strip 7.

TILE TRANSFERS If your tiles are in a good condition, but you want to liven them up, tile transfers are a simple solution. The tile surface must be absolutely free of grease, so clean them thoroughly. Soak the transfer in warm water for approximately 20 seconds, wet the surface of the tile you want to alter, then slide the transfer off the backing paper into the desired position

8. Once it is correctly aligned, smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles with a dry cloth, then gently dab it dry

9. If you want to use transfers in an area that is liable to get a lot of direct water, for instance in a shower area, apply a coat of clear, waterproof varnish over the transfers after application. Later, if you need to clean the transfers, use a soft cloth and a liquid detergent solution; never use an abrasive cleaner or bleach, as these will damage the transfer.

REMOVING AND REAPPLYING SEALANT When grouting around a bath or shower, many people make the mistake of grouting right down to the edge of the bath or shower tray. Ideally, the last joint should be wiped out and allowed to dry, then a silicone bead applied along the length of the joint. This is because the tiled wall surface and the bath or shower tray, being made of two different materials, expand and contract at different rates, which would soon cause a static seal to fail. The silicone bead provides a flexible seal that stays intact and prevents water from seeping through and causing no end of problems.

There are many different types of silicone mastic sealant for different applications. Always use a good quality one and make sure it is the correct type for the job. From time to time a flexible seal may need to be replaced – a dark line between the silicone bead and the wall or surface indicates loss of adhesion. The sealant can often be removed by picking it off slowly in one long piece. Otherwise, use a craft knife to carefully cut along the tiled surface to break the seal and then peel it off 1. Clean the two surfaces thoroughly in preparation for the new sealant, making sure that both surfaces are completely free from dirt and grease. They must also be bone dry before you apply the sealant.

TOP TIP – To ensure cleanliness and thus adhesion of the sealant, rub the surfaces to be sealed with a cloth soaked in methylated spirit. Make sure both surfaces are thoroughly dry and leave for an hour or so before applying the new silicone bead.

Fit the sealant tube into the mastic gun then cut off the end of the nozzle at an angle to suit the size of the gap. Point the nozzle at one end of the joint, hold the gun steady and squeeze the trigger while moving the gun along. If there is a corner, work away from it 2. Have handy a small bowl filled with equal parts water and washing-up liquid; dip your finger into the bowl and wipe over the bead to give a smooth finish along the length of the joint. Alternatively, dip the handle of a spoon or fork into the solution, then run it along the joint to shape it.
DESCALING

If you happen to live, as I do, in a ‘hard water’ area, the plumbing and heating systems can develop problems caused by the scaling up of pipework and fittings. The water companies supply us with clean, fresh water, with all the harmful impurities removed, but still containing minerals absorbed from the ground. It’s the concentration of these minerals that determines how hard or soft our water is. The general rule of thumb is that flat areas, which depend on supplies being drawn from underground, have a higher mineral content, therefore hard water. If you live in an area that draws its water from rocky surface terrain you are likely to have soft water.

The tell-tale signs of hard water are a scaled-up kettle or shower head, or staining on the bath or washbasin. This hard limescale also builds up on the inside of pipes. Hot- water cylinders are particularly vulnerable, with their efficiency being affected by up to 70%. Trying to prevent the build-up of limescale or staining, which can be very difficult to remove once established, is a constant but important battle.

Keep a check on limescale build up inside the shower head especially. An accumulation of limescale here will partially or wholly block the tiny holes, resulting in poor performance from your shower. To remove the scale, undo the shower head, disassemble the perforated spray plate 3 and soak all the components in a pot of proprietary descaler. Once the limescale has dissolved, rinse all the parts thoroughly with clean water, reassemble them, and refit. Your shower should function perfectly once again.

Descalent can also be used around the taps to help keep the bathroom gleaming. If hard water is causing you real problems, consider installing a water softener to treat all your water, except drinking water. Fitting one can be difficult but is do-able depending on your proficiency.

BATH PANELS A bath panel has a big impact on a bathroom, so installing a new one in a different style can have a dramatic effect, changing its appearance beyond all recognition.

REPLACING A BATH PANEL Remove the old bath panel and use it as a template for your new bath panel. Lay it on a sheet of MDF set across a pair of carpenter’s stools, or stand the sheet up if you are short of space, and draw around it to transfer the shape 4. Alternatively, measure up the bath panel space you have just exposed and transfer these measurements to the MDF.

With the MDF firmly secured, cut out the bath panel. Use a jigsaw and cut a fraction outside the line 5, then smooth off the excess using a hand plane to give an accurate fit.

TOP TIP Before cutting, double-check the dimensions of the bath panel, skirting and moulding. Next, fix on any matching skirting. Use PVA glue and pins, or screw from the inside to fix.

Draw a line of equal margin all around the bath panel, cut and mitre moulding of your choice to match the lines, then glue and pin it in position 6. With the bath panel still on the stools, paint it (including the edges) with a coat of primer, two undercoats and a topcoat. When dry, fix it into position. It’ll make your bathroom look like new.

If you wish to renew your bathroom, but you simply can’t afford to rip everything out and start from scratch, it is still possible to renovate your bathroom on a relatively small budget yet create a wonderful transformation.

A COMPLETE OVERHAUL

A tired bathroom can often be completely rejuvenated without having to replace any of the sanitary ware. Clean, fresh paint and bright new fittings will give it a new lease of life for a fraction of the cost. First, clean the tiles thoroughly, and I mean thoroughly, then renew the tile grouting with either new grout or a renovator. Change the old taps 1, waste and overflow for new chrome ones or install a mixer. Alternatively, take the old fittings, if they are good enough, to your local plumber’s merchant and have them sent away for overhauling and re-chroming. With the taps and fittings off, thoroughly clean all the surfaces of the toilet, bath and washbasin, removing any limescale staining. Take this opportunity to renew all the silicone mastic seams, then replace the taps and fittings 2. Install a new light fitting and repaint the ceiling, walls and woodwork. To add colour to a plain white tiled wall, paint a strip with one of the new products available, or use transfers or even stick-on tiles. Replace the floor covering with an inexpensive piece of vinyl, and perhaps fit a new venetian- style blind. Change the toilet seat. There you have it a new-look bathroom 3.

CLEANING AND REPLACING TILES

A tiled wall should last a very long time without needing to be repiaced, so you can imagine my concern and extreme annoyance when cracked and damaged tiles suddenly started to appear in the bathroom at home, on a wall that I had fairly recently tiled. I quizzed my wife and three children one by one, but needless to say, they all denied any knowledge or responsibility, and the mystery remains unsolved to this day. These things do happen, and one might be excused for assuming that the seismic effects of the great shifting plates of California had reached Hackney. Of course, I was left with the job of replacing the damaged tiles. Fortunately, repairing a tiled wall is fairly straightforward and restoring a tired one is even easier, although it does demand some physical effort. Apart from incidental damage tiles are only usually replaced for a more fashionable style, or because they’re very old. When tiles age the glaze tends to craze slightly and they begin to look ugly as they are covered in black, circular or angular lines. When this occurs, it’s probably worth considering taking the lot off and starting afresh. If the tiles themselves are sound and still of an acceptable style, but the grouting is black and unsightly, it may well be worth renovating them, because all that’s required is a very small outlay and a bit of elbow grease.

CLEANING A TILED WALL

Mix a bucket of bleach and warm water in equal proportions – this is a very strong solution, so wear protective rubber gloves and goggles. Apply it to the tiles using a two-sided sponge, with a soft surface on one side and a pan scrubber on the other. Using the rough side, scrub the tiles and grouting joints to remove any condensation mould marks, which are normally black 4. Polish the tiles dry with a soft cloth 5. TOP TIP To help avoid the problem of condensation, which causes the build up of unsightly sooty mould in bathrooms, shower or bath with a small window open. If that’s too cold, open the window immediately after you have left the bathroom, and leave the bathroom door open to allow fresh air to circulate.

REGROUTING A TILED WALL

Where grouting has become discoloured, scrape it out a few millimetres (1/8in) below the surface and apply fresh grout. You can use a special tool (6), or you could make one by reshaping the end of an old screwdriver with a grinder. Be careful not to slip and scratch the face of a tile. The grouting might be very tough, and it may be necessary to tap the tool along the joint with a mallet or piece of wood, such as a length of 50 x 50mm (2 x 2in) batten. Once you’ve brushed out the dust and debris from the joints, wash down the tile surface with sugar soap then polish the tiles dry with a soft cloth. Alternatively, if the tiles were washed clean before you removed the grouting, use your vacuum cleaner to suck up all the dust before you regrout.

Grout all over REJUVENATING GROUT instead of raking out the old grouting, you can use a grouting renovator. This comes in the form of a ready-mixed paint which forms a waterproof bond over the old grouting, but does not stick to the tiles. If this is your preferred option, wash the tiles and down with sugar soap, and allow the tiles to dry fully. Paint the renovator over the joints I and leave to dry, which should take a couple of hours. Spray the whole surface with water, wait three minutes, then wipe off the excess with a damp sponge. Dry and polish the tile surface with a soft cloth to finish, and the job is done.

STRIPPING OUT THE OLD

If you are replacing any item in your bathroom with a similar fitting, some of the pipework may need to be carefully dismantled for reconnection, but if you are rearranging the bathroom, you might as well just cut it all out with a hacksaw. Remember to turn off the water supply before you attempt to remove anything.

WASHBASINS

Basins come in a variety of designs. They may be supported on large, screw-fixed brackets, set into counter-tops, or balanced on a pedestal; while the pipework may be easily accessible, concealed within a wall, or hidden in a cupboard or behind the pedestal. If you want to reuse the existing pipework, undo the compression nuts on the tap connectors with a wrench or cranked spanner. Disconnect the trap waste, then undo and remove any fixings and wall brackets with a screwdriver.

TOP TIP: If you’re going to reuse connectors or old pipework, block the ends off with insulating tape or something similar, to prevent any debris dropping into the pipework and causing blockages later on.

BATHS

Cut through the supply pipes and overflow with a hacksaw, and if the bath has adjustable feet, wind them down. Use a craft knife to cut through the mastic seal around the bath. With many baths, you can just lean down on the bath and pull it away from the wall, but if there is a timber framework built around it to hold a panel, you’ll have to dismantle this first. Plastic and pressed steel baths are relatively light, so they can be removed in one piece, but a cast-iron bath is a tremendous weight. Unless you wish to restore the bath, it may be a lot easier to break it into manageable pieces using a sledge hammer. This will be noisy, and dangerous because of flying debris, so wear ear protectors, safety glasses and gloves to complete the job safely. And don’t forget to warn your neighbours before you start.

TOILETS

Flush the toilet, after you’ve turned off the water supply, to empty the cistern, then check it isn’t refilling. Using a wrench, disconnect the supply and overflow pipes. Undo the fixings for the cistern. The pan is normally stuck or fixed with brass screws to the floor. Brass is a soft material, so be careful when removing them.

If the pan waste is connected to the soil pipe with a flexible push-fit pan connector, you can simply pull the pan free. If the pan is sealed with putty or, even worse, a sandand-cement mix, this will have to be removed without damaging the cast-iron soil pipe collar, by carefully breaking out the pan at the outlet with a hammer. Block up the soil pipe to prevent any debris falling in and clogging the pipe; do this by stuffing in a plastic bag filled with old rags and tied to a length of string for easy removal. Break out the remaining pieces and jointing of the old pan using a hammer and sharp cold chisel.

If you’re unfortunate and break some of your bathroom suites soil pipe collar, this can be rectified by cutting off the damaged section using a chain-link pipe cutter or a large angle grinder (both available on hire). Make a series of horizontal cuts followed by a vertical cut until you have a clean, straight spigot end. You can then connect the new pan using a push-fit flexible pan connector.

DRIPPING TAPS

It’s amazing how many people seem to ignore a dripping tap. I think the reason must be that a tap may seem like a complicated piece of equipment to take apart, but in fact it is relatively straightforward.

On a normal tap the leak is probably caused by one of three things:

¨ Dripping from the spout indicates a washer problem.

¨ An old tap may be worn out at the seat and will continue to drip after the washer has been replaced.

REPLACING A WASHER

The only tools you’re likely to need for this job are a slotted screwdriver and an adjustable spanner. Remember to turn off the water supply at the stopcock.

Fully open the bathroom tap to drain any water before you begin to dismantle the tap. Prise off the tap head cover 1. The shrouded cover needs to be unscrewed 2 to expose the headgear nut that is directly above the body of the tap 3. Undo the nut with a spanner 4 then lift out the complete headgear assembly.

The washer is fixed to the jumper, which fits nicely in the bottom of the headgear. Depending on the type of tap, the jumper is either removed together with the headgear, or sits inside the tap body. Prise the washer from the jumper using a screwdriver 5 or undo the retaining nut to release it for replacement. Use penetrating oil to ease the nut if it’s stuck; if the nut won’t move at all, you will have to replace both the jumper and washer. Replace the washer and reassemble the tap.

Always leave the plug in so bits don’t disappear down the hole

cb TOP TIP It’s always worth keeping a few spare washers handy in your fixing kit. To ease a stiff washer on or off the tap’s innards, lubricate it with silicone grease. To soften a new washer and make it easier to fit, soak it dthoroughly in hot water.

REGRINDING THE SEAT

If you are unlucky and the tap still drips after you have changed the washer on the tap correctly, the tap seat is probably worn and so letting water through. To rectify this a special reseating tool can be acquired from a plumber’s merchant to regrind the seat flat. Simply remove the headgear and jumper again, then screw the reseating tool into the tap body. Bring the cutter into contact with the tap seat and turn the handle to re-cut the worn seat surface smooth and flat 6.

If that all sounds too difficult you can purchase a nylon liner, which is sold with a matching jumper and washer 7. Just pop the liner over the old tap seat, fit the replacement jumper, reassemble the tap and then close it. This action forces the liner into position and prevents the tap from leaking.

REPLACING A CERAMIC DISK CARTRIDGE

These are much simpler to repair than conventional taps. Turn off the water supply as before. Unscrew the old cartridge from the tap and fit a replacement. Note that cartridges are left- or right-handed on mixer taps.

cb TOP TIP Whenever you are servicing a bathroom tap, leave the plug in to prevent any vital components disappearing down the hole. It may also be wise to put a folded towel in the basin while you’re working 8, which will prevent any damage to the surface if you drop something weighty such as a spanner.

Replacing a radiator witha towel rail

Most modern towel rails are attached through the wall, rather than the floor, so you’ll more than likely need to adapt the pipework. First, you’ll need to drain down the system (see below), then disconnect and remove the old radiator complete with its valves 1. Clean up the open pipes with steel wool and temporarily cap them off with a fitting to prevent any debris getting in while you work. Remove the old brackets. At this point it’s a good idea to mark a centre line on the wall where the old radiator hung, to act as a guide.

Adapting to a different size

You’ll need to gain access to the floor void to alter the pipework. Remove the skirting and lift the floorboards. For clarity the pipework is shown here in an empty void, but in reality you’ll have to cut away some plasterboard above solid wall. Either way you will have to make good the wall before moving on to fix the towel rail.

Mark positions for the new copper tails (for both the feed and the return pipes) 2, then cut out a section of noggin, or chase into a solid wall, to take the new pipework. Run the new pipework from the old pipes, using either compression or capillary fittings, and add two elbow joints so each pipe can go into the wall and exit higher up 3 ready to connect to the towel rail. Tape over the open ends to keep out any debris while you are restoring the wall, flooring and skirting.

Installing the new heated towel rail

Unpack the towel rail and remove the plastic bungs that protect the threads. Leave on the protective outer coating until the heated towel rail is fixed in place — you are bound to get a few scratches as you install it. Unscrew the two valve adapters from the bottom of the old radiator with an adjustable spanner. Unscrew the bleed valve with a bleed key, then remove both blank plugs from the top of the new towel rail with a radiator spanner 4. Screw the adapters and plugs into the new towel rail. Finally, screw the bleed valve into the blanking plug. The new towel rail is now ready for fixing to the wall.

The heated towel rail is is attached to the wall in a different way to an ordinary radiator. The bottom should be level with the skirting board. Using a spirit level, draw a horizontal guide on the wall for the top brackets 5, and fix them in place 6. Repeat for the bottom brackets. Now you can connect the valves to the supply and return pipes. Check the position of the towel rail on the radiator brackets.

Hold the valve to the pipe, mark the pipe and cut to fit 7. Connect the towel rail and cover the fixings with the clip-on caps. Connect the valves to the adapters and close the drain cock. Restore the water supply to the expansion tank and refill the central heating system (see opposite). Fill the radiator by opening the valves, bleeding any air in the radiator through the bleed valve 8.

Bathroom Tip: Hold a cloth to the bleed valve as you are screwing in, to catch any water that might leak out 9.

Draining and refilling the system

Shut off the boiler, switch off the fuel supply and leave to cool down for a few hours. Once the water in the heating system is cold, cut off the water supply at the expansion tank, either by closing the tank’s gate valve or tying up the float arm. Fit one end of a garden hose over the drain cock, usually on the return pipe at the boiler, with the other end over an external drain gully. Open the drain cock using an Allen key or spanner, and let the system drain down completely. Pack towels or cloths around the valve in case of spillages. To refill the system, close the drain cock and restore the water supply.

Problems with a toilet flush

Obviously, constant use of an appliance means increased wear, but regular maintenance checks should keep problems to a minimum. There are basically three types of toilet cistern: low-level (easy to maintain), high-level (accessible by stepladder) or concealed, which may present maintenance access problems if the toilet installation wasn’t well planned. The working components in a toilet’s cistern are readily available for replacement or repair from a plumber’s merchant or a DIY store.

Bathroom Tip: When purchasing a replacement part for you toilet, take the old one with you to make sure you are buying the right type. Also, write down the name and make of the bathroom suite. Or even better, telephone ahead to avoid a wasted journey to the bathroom DIY shop.

How does a toilet flush?

The most common flushing system is operated by a direct-action toilet cistern. Water enters the cistern via the supply pipe and is controlled by a valve. This valve is in turn controlled by a hollow plastic float on an extended arm, which opens or closes the valve as the water level inside the cistern changes. The water level is preset to the required volume necessary for flushing.

The most comman problems

A few problems can occur in a toilet cistern, the most common being a faulty float valve or a poorly adjusted float arm. Evidence of either of these is clearly visible from the outside, when water drips or runs from the overflow pipe. When this occurs your cistern will be constantly filling, which is both noisy and wasteful.

Float valve problems

Float valves are used in two types of situations – loft storage tanks and toilet cisterns. In a conventional system the cold-water storage tank in the loft supplies all the hot and cold water for the bathroom. If the overflow is running from this tank, you will need to shut off the water supply and change the washer in the float valve.

When you have shut off the water supply, turn on all the bathroom taps and flush the toilet repeatedly to empty the tank. Disconnect the valve from its supply pipe and remove it from the cistern. Remove the split pin from the valve 1, releasing the float arm. Unscrew the cap at the end of the float valve 2, remove the piston from the body and unscrew the piston end cap. To prevent the piston from rotating, insert a slotted screwdriver into the gap. Remove the old washer 3 and clean any debris off the cap using wire wool 4. Fit the new washer, lubricating it with a touch of silicone grease 5. Replace the piston, reconnect the float arm to the valve and replace the split pin.

An adjustment screw on the type of float valve used in the toilet cistern controls the water level within the cistern 6. If, after reducing the level the valve still lets water get by, this is normally an indication that either the washer or the diaphragm, depending on valve type, needs replacing.

Changing a toilets Washer

The most common float-valve system today uses a diaphragm valve, replacing the old washer with a large diaphragm that is less susceptible to wear and limescale. The newer valve appears to be much more durable and reduces maintenance.

To change the diaphragm, isolate the water supply and drain the cistern by flushing the toilet. Undo the nut connecting the float arm at the top of the valve and put it to one side. Unscrew the ball-valve assembly, then remove the plastic piston 7. Remove the worn diaphragm, clean off any residue build-up, and fit a new diaphragm 8, adding a touch of silicone grease to act as a lubricant. Reassemble all the bits and turn the water back on.

Replacing a toilets Flap Valve

Having to press the lever repeatedly to get the toilet to flush indicates that the flap valve is probably faulty and requires replacing. To replace the flap valve, first tie the float arm to a wooden batten laid across the cistern, to prevent it refilling. Flush the cistern to clear the water and check the float arm is not allowing the cistern to refill. Unscrew the large nut that connects the flush pipe to the cistern, and move it aside.

Undo the siphon-retaining nut to the toilet cistern base (some water will spill out at this point, so have some towels or cloths ready). Disconnect the flushing arm 9 and carefully ease out the siphon. Remove the diaphragm from the metal plate and replace it with a new one. Reassemble the flushing system, reconnecting the flush pipe to complete the job.