Comments on: Fitting a Bath

By: DEE

DEE — Fri, 18 Nov 2011 00:28:05 +0000

hi,
Damaged the metal thing around my plug hole as to where all the sliver is coming away, was wondering as theres no screw in the middle does it mean I have to change the whole zinc or can I change the plug hole even if there’s no screw in the middle.

By: Emma

Emma — Thu, 17 Nov 2011 15:40:27 +0000

Hi, I have a problem with my bath and toilet combating. I live in an upstairs house conversion and my toilet kept blocking then my bath has not been emptying properly, fills up when in the shower. Then today I unlocked the toilet and as water went down it began bubbling from bath, I then had a shower after and the bath started vibrating and grumbling really loudly I was scared I was going to go through ceiling does anyone know what is it?

By: Philip

Philip — Mon, 17 Oct 2011 17:40:11 +0000

Great advice being offered here.

I have just had an acrylic bath fitted and awaiting a joiner to build a frame for the panel but I notice that the panel runs of as the bath is level I assume it must be the floor that is of. The plastic panel meets the bath in one corner and leaves about a 5 mm gap at the other.
The panel doesn’t suit to be trimmed as there’s a lip at the bath end and its curved in at the bottom (floor end). My question is this, when the frame is fitted and panels placed in position is it wise to run silicone along the bottom to seal the gap? Or is there a better solution? Thanks

By: Barry

Barry — Sat, 08 Oct 2011 03:45:10 +0000

Hi there, Do pressed metal modern baths require feet to be attached if bath is to be inserted into a hob/box?

By: adrian

adrian — Tue, 27 Sep 2011 09:22:53 +0000

Hi Ryan,

To answer your question, it is always better to fit the bath then seal the edges near the wall – this will strengthen the fitting of the bath. Moreover, sealing it then tiling and then doing a final seal around the edges – this way the bath has a double seal and is a lot sturdier.

Regards
Victoria Plumb Technical Team

By: zonk

zonk — Mon, 12 Sep 2011 22:27:16 +0000

the fall should only need to be about 3 degrees 45 is way too much and could cause suction problems.

By: farwestwoman

farwestwoman — Fri, 02 Sep 2011 21:38:12 +0000

We have fitted an acrylic bath on a floating floor (thick ply etc) in a tenanted house but the tenants are a bit ‘on the large side’ and the silicone seal around between the bath and the wall keeps failing, meaning water runs down the back. I just wondered if there is a max weight limit for these baths?

By: ray

ray — Fri, 26 Aug 2011 10:07:37 +0000

i am fitting a new bath,the taps will be on the right hand end middle but i need to get the water from the taps to the outlet into the bath which will be fitted mid length on the far side ,so the run will need to travel about 1.1 metres and turn a 90 degree corner,this all has to be fitted before the bath is placed in situ,what materials should the supply run be made of,should it be all copper,or flexibles or a mixture of both is that would be secure enough,also do i need to fit non return valves between the hot and cold system supply pipes and the taps themselves

By: odette

odette — Thu, 04 Aug 2011 09:13:01 +0000

hi had a bath fitted but plumber has fitted it onto the tiles instead of removing them first now water is going through kitchen ceiling did say to him thought tiles had to be removed first but he said they didnt need to be does this mean everything needs taking out again

By: Victoria Plumb Technical

Victoria Plumb Technical — Tue, 31 May 2011 12:39:19 +0000

Hello, Its designed to be a free standing bath.