Like fitted kitchens, fitted bathrooms look good and make use of otherwise wasted space for and tic all kinds of handy storage. There is an enormous range available, with widely varying prices to are in 1 match. The cheapest option is to put one together yourself using flat-packs.
Installing a flat-pack bathroom cabinet
Flat-pack systems are no longer just for kitchens it is now possible to create a modern, streamlined look in your bathroom. The cam-and-stud fixing mechanism has revolutionized flat-packs. You simply lock the stud solidly in place by turning the cam with a screwdriver.
Bathroom Tip: Open flat-pack packaging very carefully and store all the components together until you are ready to install. It is not at all unknown for the wrong unit to be sent out, and it will be much easier to change if everything is intact and in the original packaging.
For a workbench, you can set a sheet of 19mm (3/4in) plywood or MDF on a pair of saw horses or stools. Unpack and identify all the parts before you begin work. I always position the parts on the bench like an exploded drawing, and then check which fixings go where. Also, read the instructions a couple of times to absorb all the information.
Familiarize yourself with all the components. To help you understand the construction properly and avoid making errors, carry out a dry run by putting the unit together without any fixings.
Putting the base together
Take the two side panels and identify the pre-drilled cam stud holes. Insert the cam studs in the pre-drilled holes and tighten these using a screwdriver; double check they are in the correct holes 1. Take the base panel and horizontal struts and identify the pre-drilled dowel holes. The dowels should fit snugly, and act as locating pins for the connecting panels. With the unit on its side, attach the side panels to the pre-dowelled base panel and horizontal struts. Pop the cams into the holes, ensuring that the embossed arrow on the cams points towards the end of the panel. To secure the side panels to the base, tighten the locking cams; turn them clockwise using a screwdriver.
Attach the legs to the base 2, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Legs can be adjusted individually to accommodate any unevenness in the floor.
The cupboard shelves and doors are fitted once the whole bathroom is assembled and in position. Two-door units are assembled in the same way as single-door units, but sometimes with the addition of a vertical section, which is screwed to the centre of the unit front edge. This piece is added to strengthen the unit and conceal any gap between the doors.
Open the packaging for the door hinges carefully so as not to lose any parts, and leave them in position on the workbench while you work on the door. This will reduce the risk of damage as you work. First, attach the hinges to the pre-machined positions on the door. There should be two tiny indentations, one either side of the cut-out hole, indicating where the screws should go. Carefully drill pilot holes, using a very fine bit; make sure you don’t go right through to the face and ruin the door. Alternatively, you could use a bradawl to create shallow guide holes for the screws. Push the circular part of the hinge into the cut-out hole 3, and drive home the screws. Fix the hinge-mounting plates to the pre-drilled positions on the side panel of the unit 4, but don’t overtighten.
The door handle positions should be visible on the opposite side to the hinge; look for one or two tiny indentations. Hold a scrap block of wood against the face of the door 5, to make sure breakout doesn’t occur, then drill pilot holes. Align the door handles and screw the bolts in from the back of the door 6. Squeeze an extra quarter-turn on the screwdriver, to create a tight fit and prevent the handles falling off after the first ten minutes.