Removing Damaged Bathroom Tiles: If one or two tiles on a good wall have been cracked or damaged, do not despair. Providing you kept the half-box you over-ordered at the back of the shed, along with all the half-empty cans of paint, this is a relatively easy problem to overcome. The first thing to do is to remove the grouting from around the tile, or tiles, you intend to replace . Using an electric drill fitted with a masonry bit, drill a sequence of holes near the centre of the tile

2; this will weaken the tile considerably. Make sure that you only drill through the tile, and try not to damage the wall behind. Using a hammer and small, sharp cold chisel, and working from the weakened centre to the outside edges, carefully break out the tile

3. It’s worth taking the time to sharpen the cold chisel on a grinder before you start.

TOP SAFETY TIP Flying ceramic slivers could very easily blind or cut you, so always wear goggles and gloves for this task. Take your time over the removal process, to avoid damaging any of the surrounding tiles. Next, remove any old adhesive and brush off any dust, ready for fixing the replacement tile. Butter a bed of adhesive onto the back of the tile 4 and press it into position flush with the surrounding tiles

5. Clean off any excess adhesive and leave to set before grouting.

Grouting

You can use one of the ready-mixed grouts or buy powder and mix it with water to form a paste the consistency of double cream. Apply the paste to the tile surface, using a tiler’s rubber float to press the grout into the joints

6. Wipe the grout off with a damp sponge before it sets. When it has set, run something smooth, such as a plastic pen cover, over the joints to compress and shape them. When the grout has dried, polish the tiles using a soft, dry cloth. Leave a newly tiled shower for a week before you use it. After doing such a good job, I think you deserve to treat yourself to a proper night out on the tiles!

Painting Bathroom Tiles: The most dramatic change you can make to unsightly old tiles is to paint them. You can use ordinary paint on tiles, but the best results will be achieved if you use a specialist tile paint, several types of which are readily available. You need to apply a special tile primer before you paint. It’s always wise to research this option properly and test samples on a spare tile to see the finish and colour before you start the job. First, sand the surface to create a key for the paint. Clean off any dust with clean water, then dry thoroughly. Protect the surface around the area to be painted. Apply the primer and then the paint, either over the whole tiled surface or in a strip 7.

TILE TRANSFERS If your tiles are in a good condition, but you want to liven them up, tile transfers are a simple solution. The tile surface must be absolutely free of grease, so clean them thoroughly. Soak the transfer in warm water for approximately 20 seconds, wet the surface of the tile you want to alter, then slide the transfer off the backing paper into the desired position

8. Once it is correctly aligned, smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles with a dry cloth, then gently dab it dry

9. If you want to use transfers in an area that is liable to get a lot of direct water, for instance in a shower area, apply a coat of clear, waterproof varnish over the transfers after application. Later, if you need to clean the transfers, use a soft cloth and a liquid detergent solution; never use an abrasive cleaner or bleach, as these will damage the transfer.

REMOVING AND REAPPLYING SEALANT When grouting around a bath or shower, many people make the mistake of grouting right down to the edge of the bath or shower tray. Ideally, the last joint should be wiped out and allowed to dry, then a silicone bead applied along the length of the joint. This is because the tiled wall surface and the bath or shower tray, being made of two different materials, expand and contract at different rates, which would soon cause a static seal to fail. The silicone bead provides a flexible seal that stays intact and prevents water from seeping through and causing no end of problems.

There are many different types of silicone mastic sealant for different applications. Always use a good quality one and make sure it is the correct type for the job. From time to time a flexible seal may need to be replaced – a dark line between the silicone bead and the wall or surface indicates loss of adhesion. The sealant can often be removed by picking it off slowly in one long piece. Otherwise, use a craft knife to carefully cut along the tiled surface to break the seal and then peel it off 1. Clean the two surfaces thoroughly in preparation for the new sealant, making sure that both surfaces are completely free from dirt and grease. They must also be bone dry before you apply the sealant.

TOP TIP – To ensure cleanliness and thus adhesion of the sealant, rub the surfaces to be sealed with a cloth soaked in methylated spirit. Make sure both surfaces are thoroughly dry and leave for an hour or so before applying the new silicone bead.

Fit the sealant tube into the mastic gun then cut off the end of the nozzle at an angle to suit the size of the gap. Point the nozzle at one end of the joint, hold the gun steady and squeeze the trigger while moving the gun along. If there is a corner, work away from it 2. Have handy a small bowl filled with equal parts water and washing-up liquid; dip your finger into the bowl and wipe over the bead to give a smooth finish along the length of the joint. Alternatively, dip the handle of a spoon or fork into the solution, then run it along the joint to shape it.
DESCALING

If you happen to live, as I do, in a ‘hard water’ area, the plumbing and heating systems can develop problems caused by the scaling up of pipework and fittings. The water companies supply us with clean, fresh water, with all the harmful impurities removed, but still containing minerals absorbed from the ground. It’s the concentration of these minerals that determines how hard or soft our water is. The general rule of thumb is that flat areas, which depend on supplies being drawn from underground, have a higher mineral content, therefore hard water. If you live in an area that draws its water from rocky surface terrain you are likely to have soft water.

The tell-tale signs of hard water are a scaled-up kettle or shower head, or staining on the bath or washbasin. This hard limescale also builds up on the inside of pipes. Hot- water cylinders are particularly vulnerable, with their efficiency being affected by up to 70%. Trying to prevent the build-up of limescale or staining, which can be very difficult to remove once established, is a constant but important battle.

Keep a check on limescale build up inside the shower head especially. An accumulation of limescale here will partially or wholly block the tiny holes, resulting in poor performance from your shower. To remove the scale, undo the shower head, disassemble the perforated spray plate 3 and soak all the components in a pot of proprietary descaler. Once the limescale has dissolved, rinse all the parts thoroughly with clean water, reassemble them, and refit. Your shower should function perfectly once again.

Descalent can also be used around the taps to help keep the bathroom gleaming. If hard water is causing you real problems, consider installing a water softener to treat all your water, except drinking water. Fitting one can be difficult but is do-able depending on your proficiency.

BATH PANELS A bath panel has a big impact on a bathroom, so installing a new one in a different style can have a dramatic effect, changing its appearance beyond all recognition.

REPLACING A BATH PANEL Remove the old bath panel and use it as a template for your new bath panel. Lay it on a sheet of MDF set across a pair of carpenter’s stools, or stand the sheet up if you are short of space, and draw around it to transfer the shape 4. Alternatively, measure up the bath panel space you have just exposed and transfer these measurements to the MDF.

With the MDF firmly secured, cut out the bath panel. Use a jigsaw and cut a fraction outside the line 5, then smooth off the excess using a hand plane to give an accurate fit.

TOP TIP Before cutting, double-check the dimensions of the bath panel, skirting and moulding. Next, fix on any matching skirting. Use PVA glue and pins, or screw from the inside to fix.

Draw a line of equal margin all around the bath panel, cut and mitre moulding of your choice to match the lines, then glue and pin it in position 6. With the bath panel still on the stools, paint it (including the edges) with a coat of primer, two undercoats and a topcoat. When dry, fix it into position. It’ll make your bathroom look like new.