INSTALLATION

When fitting a bath you have to plan the order in which you will need to work and install any necessary new pipe work. Measure the bath, pipe and bath waste positions, and mark them clearly on the wall in pencil for easy reference.

You may need to run new 22mm (7/8in) supply pipes or add spurs to the existing runs. Do this before you actually install the bath, in readiness for connecting to the flexible pipes attached to the bath taps or mixer bath / shower tap 1.

ATTACHING THE FEET

Before you do anything else, you need to attach the feet assembly. Turn the bath upside down; keep the bath in its packaging so it doesn’t get scratched. On an old-style, cast-iron bath the feet, normally of a ball and claw design, are simply fitted onto predetermined positions using the bolts provided. A acrylic bath may have a supporting frame, with legs attached, which has to be fitted before the bath is installed. On pressed-steel baths, the legs are either similarly bolted on 2, or stuck to the base by means of an adhesive pad attached to the leg assembly. The leg positions are important, so check with the instructions that you have correctly fitted the leg assembly. You may have to adjust the leg heights to suit an uneven floor when you finally install the bath.

FITTING THE TAPS

It is extremely difficult to fit the taps and the waste and overflow once a bath is in place, so you need to this before you finally position it. Slip a plastic or rubber sealing gasket over the tap or mixer tail, then pop this through the tap hole, so the gasket (which will ensure a waterproof seal) sits between the tap and the bath. Slip a top-hat washer over the tail 3,

then tighten the back nut onto the tail to fix the tap or mixer tap body to the bath 4.

Connect the flexible 22mm (7/8in) pipe tap connector 5.

FITTING THE WASTE AND OVERFLOW

Most baths accept a combined waste-and-overflow unit. The waste is the plughole that removes the bath water, and the overflow prevents the house flooding if you leave the bath running while you have a cup of tea. There are basically two types: a compression unit, and a banjo unit. The banjo unit must have the overflow section fitted before the trap, while the compression unit fits directly to the trap itself.

To fit a banjo waste unit, first attach the overflow pipe to its inlet. Fit the washer seal over the overflow grille. Insert the threaded overflow boss from the underside of the bath through the overflow hole and screw the overflow grille onto it 6.

When fitting the waste outlet, slip the rubber washer over the tail and then insert it into the bath waste hole 1.

TOP TIP – Add a bead of silicone mastic sealant to the washer and waste before inserting into the waste hole 2.

Hold the waste fitting, with its washer in place, beneath the bath waste hole 3,

then screw the waste outlet into it. Wrap several turns of PTFE tape around the thread of the waste fitting 4,

then tighten the bath trap nut onto the threaded tail of the waste 5.

TOP TIP – To avoid damaging the chrome, wrap a cloth around the outlet grille before tightening with grips 6.

ENSURING THE BATH IS LEVEL

As a guide for levelling the bath, make pencil marks along the wall with the aid of a spirit level 7.

When everything is ready, check the final position of the bath with the spirit level along both the length and width 8.

Most height adjustments are made by turning the adjustable legs up or down 9.

Cast-iron baths don’t have adjustable legs, but fine adjustment can be made using the bolts and fine washers or packers.

SUPPORTING THE BATH

Try to bear in mind the amount of weight a bath full of water would weigh, then add your own body weight. As a necessary precaution – and in order not to surprise anyone in the room below with an unannounced visit – we suggest that you strengthen the floor either by fixing 19mm (3/4in) plywood under the bath / shower bath, or simply fit two boards beneath the legs in order to spread the weight over a greater area of floor 10.

The added bonus of doing this is that you reduce the movement levels of the bath between its full and empty states, which enables you to make a much more durable and effective water seal between the bath and wall.

MAKING THE SEAL

Once the movement levels between the bath and surrounding walls have been minimized by supporting the bath properly, it’s time to make the waterproof seal between the bath and the adjacent walls. An effective seal is paramount to prevent damp problems occurring later on.

Ensure both surfaces are completely dust and grease free. Grease shouldn’t be a problem, though, if you’re fitting a new bath to new tiles. To get the right finish on the mastic, cut the nozzle to the required width of mastic. Fit the tube in the applicator and start applying from the corner, if there is one, outwards. Keeping your hand steady, move slowly but continuously in the desired direction 11,

using a clean damp cloth to wipe the sealant. While the mastic is fresh, dip a finger in some soapy water and run it slowly over the mastic to effect a smooth shape and ensure contact with both surfaces 12.

A small bowl of equal quantities of washing-up liquid and water is all you will need. Alternatively, try using the handle of a fork or teaspoon to shape the mastic. Allow the mastic to dry for at least 24 hours before using the bath.

It’s important to use good-quality silicone mastic sealant, as it will incorporate essential ingredients, such as elasticity, colour retention and anti-fungal inhibitors.

Fitting a Shower Curtain

If you are using a bath mixer to shower with, a low-cost solution is to fit a shower rail and curtain. Fix the shower head holder at the right height, then screw the shower curtain rail brackets to the wall higher than this by drilling into the tiled area, taking care not damage the tiles. Secure the brackets to each wall with the screws supplied (you’ll need to plug a solid wall).1. Attach the curtain to the rings – voila an instant shower screen.

Fitting a Folding Bath Screen

A bath screen that folds is useful as you can push it out of the way when you are not showering. The hinged screen comes ready to fix to the wall, with rubber sealing strips at the bottom already fitted. Follow the instructions for fitting to the wall above. Slot in the bath screen then unfold it. As you unfold, the rubber seal should fit snugly against the bath edge. You can start leak-free showering straightaway 2.

Fitting / Installing a Shower Bath

In many cases, neglecting the issue of accessibility is prohibited by law. Federally funded housing projects and commercial construction typically fall within the jurisdiction of standards published in such guidelines as the American National Standards Institute’s A117.1 (updated in 1981 to include standards for private dwellings), the Uniform Federal
Accessibility Standard (UFAS) of 1985 (for dwellings in federal projects), the 1988 Fair
Housing Amendments Act, and the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) of 1990. While these laws don’t all have the same specific provisions and don’t generally apply to private residential construction, their common goal—to provide equal access to bath facilities for people with a wide range of abilities can and should be incorporated into residential design.

Sometimes, simply making the bathroom adaptable—that is, capable of being altered by
adding or removing certain elements—for persons with varying degrees of disabilities is
enough. This can mean providing blocking in the framing to accommodate the installation of grab bars or installing a base cabinet under a basin that can be removed later to provide knee space for someone in a wheelchair. Sometimes, though, accessibility considerations challenge conventional construction wisdom and economics. The fact that first-floor halfbaths can be inserted into such small spaces at relatively small expense is one of the reasons why they are so popular. A full-size bath locations where grab bars might be necessary. This is relatively inexpensive because framing cut-offs generated during construction can typically be used, but it does limit future grabbar locations to areas where the blocking is installed. Another approach is to sheath all of the interior walls with 3/4-in. plywood, then install drywall over the plywood. This method is more expensive, but it allows the grab bars to be mounted anywhere on the wall.

Clearances

While NKBA recommendations for grab-bar locations are generally sound, in many cases
their recommendations for clear floor space conflict to some degree with federal accessibility guidelines. For example, NKBA Guideline 23 recommends 16-in. clearance (15-in. minimum) from the centerline of a toilet to a sidewall or other fixture. People who use a wheelchair or a walker would probably find that dimension extremely cramped, if not impossible, and would consider the wider 18-in. clearance required by most federal agencies the minimum.

Bathroom fixtures should have at least a 30-in. by 48-in. clear floor space in front of each fixture (NKBA #3), and there should also be room for the 5-ft. turning radius generally recommended for wheelchairs. If possible, toilets should be located so that they are easily accessible from either side (although toilets located in a separate compartment can only be approached from the front, which limits their use by some people).

Entries and doors

Entryways need to be at least 32 in. wide to accommodate wheelchairs (NKBA #1). If possible, try to make the door swing out into the hallway rather than inward. That way, if someone has fallen or needs assistance in the bathroom, the door can be opened easily. One way to eliminate the problem of door swing is to use pocket doors. Though more costly to install, pocket doors slide completely out of the way and make entry and exit for someone in a wheelchair much easier.

It’s also a good idea to eliminate thresholds and height transitions in the entryway. They can be stumbling blocks for people using walkers or wheelchairs. Either bring one floor up to the level of the other, or gradually shim up the low side so that the transition isn’t abrupt. And make the finish flooring a nonslip material, or install nonslip strips. For example, ceramic tile with a matte finish is less slippery than glossy tile.

Accessible fixtures

A typical sink sits on a 30-in.-high by 22-in.-deep cabinet topped by a countertop. Unfortunately, this arrangement is very difficult for people in wheelchairs to use. They need to get in closer than the cabinet will allow, which is why most federal standards require an open area underneath the sink. Sinks are also usually too low at 30 in.; most people except children and very short people prefer a sink somewhere near 32 in. off the floor, though I’ve installed sinks up to 36 in. high. In general, a 32-in.-high sink is a good compromise for most people.

Wheelchair users need an open 27-in. clearance between the floor and the front rim of the sink (NKBA #12), so a vanity base is going to get in the way. Wall-hung and pedestal sinks most easily meet this requirement, but they don’t provide any undersink storage. If you are planning with future accessibility in mind, one solution is to provide removable cabinetry under a wall-hung sink or a sink mounted in a built-in countertop. That way, knee space can be created without removing the entire sink. If plumbing is exposed under the sink, you’ll need to cover or insulate the supply pipes and drain and make sure there are no sharp surfaces.

The problem with most standard toilets is that they are too low, which makes them difficult to use for people of limited strength. Toilets should be 17 in. to 19 in. high, the height of standard seating, but most toilets are about 15’2 in. high. Wall-hung toilets are available that are the right height, provide more clear floor space, and make it easier to clean under and around the toilet. Another option is a power-elevating toilet seat that mounts on a conventional toilet. Or a seat mounted on an aluminum frame that fits around a conventional toilet can also raise the seat height, while providing a graspable handhold.

Bathroom Floor Plan	Sink
Toilet	Toilet
Bath	Shower

If you’ve ever tried to give a young child a bath, you know that the traditional bath has a few flaws. For one thing, it’s too low, not only for a parent bending over to scrub a tiny body, but also for many people who have difficulty getting up from a seated position, much less from floor level. Also, baths can get pretty slippery, and many of them don’t have much to grab onto if someone starts to fall.

Strategically located grab bars and handholds are an important first step in making a bath area accessible. There should also be an 18-in.-wide seat capable of supporting 250 lb. per sq. ft. either added to one end of the bath or securely mounted in the bath area itself. Raising the bath on a platform that brings the rim up to conventional seat height will make it easier for small children to get in and out of the bath. And while trackmounted sliding-glass shower-door enclosures are popular, they make access difficult, and ADA 4.20.7 specifically prohibits rim-mounted tracks on baths. Rod-mounted shower curtains are a better choice.

A number of manufacturers are addressing the shortcomings of the traditional bath with designs that incorporate recent research and new technology. While these baths clearly offer more accessibility to a wider range of people, they are not inexpensive, ranging in price from £1,800 in a basic bath configuration to over $3,000 for whirlpool versions. On the other hand, showers designed to accommodate persons with a wide range of physical abilities are not significantly more expensive than “normal” showers. The addition of appropriate handholds, seating, and a bit more space can easily upgrade a conventional shower to an accessible one.

A 36-in. by 36-in. shower stall is large enough to fit most users, but it’s compact enough that grab bars can be used for support on all sides. This size will fit the required seat yet still leave plenty of room for standing. An alternative shower plan fits in the 32-in. by 60-in. space of a conventional bath, and if there’s no curb, a wheelchair can roll right into it. Curbless designs are best because they don’t present an obstacle for wheelchairs or other walking aids.

Shower heads, shower controls and shower valves

A handheld showerhead mounted on an adjustable track is a great addition to a shower system and is a necessity for any accessible unit. There are a number of different styles available, and the addition of a long hose and a volume control makes these units perfect for washing kids, pets, and the shower itself afterward. Usually, the mounting track is 2 ft. long, so the showerhead is adaptable to a wide range of heights.

Shower controls should be mounted between 38 in. and 48 in. above the floor of the shower and should also be accessible from outside of it (NKBA #22). Lever-handled controls are simpler to operate than knobs and require less agility and hand strength. And now required by most building codes are valves that automatically regulate the water temperature of the shower should the hot/cold balance be disrupted (NKBA #21).

Bathroom accessories

Most bathrooms have a mirror mounted over the sink, but in many cases this mirror is too high to be of any use to someone in a wheelchair. Extending the mirror down to the
backsplash is one way of correcting this; another is to tilt the mirror down or to mount the
mirror so that it is tiltable. It’s also a good idea to provide another full-height mirror elsewhere in the bathroom.

Planning for accessibility can also extend to such areas as light-switch selection. Rocker-style switches for bathroom lighting are easier to control for people with limited hand mobility than conventional single-pole switches. Another option might be a passive infrared occupancy sensor switch, which turns lights on in the presence of motion. This switch also saves energy because lights can’t inadvertently be left on.