Before a pedestal sink takes its place, the wall behind it needs to be shored up to hold its weight. Then the installation goes easy.

To install a pedestal sink you need the following material:

• Adjustable wrench
• Electric drill
• Hacksaw
• Measuring tape
• Pedestal sink with mounting bracket
• P-trap, tailpiece, and slip-nut fittings
• Ratchet with sockets
• Scrap plywood or 2-x-10 for blocking
• Wood screws

Mounting the sink to the wall

After the wall is reinforced and repaired, the sink can be installed. Some sinks require a separate bracket that is installed first, but others mount directly to the wall. These directions are for a sink with a bracket. You can skip those steps if the sink you’re installing doesn’t have a bracket. Figure 1 shows a typical installation.

1. Position the bracket on the wall and use the bracket as a template to mark the location for the mounting lag bolts.

To find the exact location of the mounting bracket, consult the roughing-in dimensions provided by the manufacturer.

Make sure the bracket is level.

Pedestal sinks are hung on a wall bracket or secured directly to the wall and supported by the pedestal.

2. Drill pilot holes through the layout marks on the wall into the wall reinforcement.

Make the holes about 1/8 inch smaller than the lag bolts supplied by the manufacturer. Lag bolts are large screws with a square or hex head.

3. Install the bracket with the lag bolts.

4. Hang the basin on the wall bracket and then install the additional mounting screws to hold the sink to the bracket and wall.

If the sink does not have a mounting bracket, install it directly to the wall with the fasteners provided by the manufacturer.

5. Test-fit the pedestal, mark its location, and then move it safely out of the way.

Installing the P-trap

With the sink on the wall, you can now install the P-trap. The P-trap is the pipe that connects the sink to the house drain. The U-shape of this pipe is the trap that retains enough water to prevent sewer gases from entering the bathroom. The P-trap is adjustable and can slide up and down on the pipe leaving the sink drain. The other end of the P-trap can also slide in and out of the fitting on the wall.

To install the P-trap, you may have to cut the tailpiece that protrudes from the pop-up assembly if the P-trap doesn’t align with the drain that comes out of the wall.

Referring to Figure 2, follow these steps to install the P-trap:

• Slide the short side of the P-trap onto the tailpiece that drops down from the sink drain. Move the P-trap up or down to align the trap arm with opening in the wall.

Use a hacksaw to cut the tailpiece shorter whenever the P-trap can’t be moved higher up the tailpiece and the trap arm is below the wall drain fitting. Purchase a longer tailpiece whenever the P-trap is above the wall drain fitting when attached to the end of the tailpiece.

• Take the lower part of the P-trap apart and insert the trap arm into the wall drain fitting as far as it will go.
• Pull the trap arm out of the wall fitting until it aligns with the top of U-shaped portion of the trap.

If the trap arm comes completely out of the wall before it can be attached to the trap, purchase a longer trap arm. If the rap arm is in the wall fitting as far as it will go and extends past the U-shaped part of the trap, cut it shorter with the hacksaw.

• Insert the trap arm back into the wall drain, move it into alignment with the trap, and thread on (but don’t tighten) the slip nut.
• When the trap parts are joined together, tighten the slip nuts on the tail piece and the wall drain fittings.

Attaching riser tubes to the faucet

After the P-trap is installed, you can turn your attention to attaching the riser tubes (supply lines) to the faucet tailpieces, using the compression nuts that came with the faucet. See Figure 2

The P-trap and riser tubes

The riser tubes connect the faucet to the stop valves. Here are a couple of pointers for attaching the tubes to the faucet:

• Snug up the nuts by hand
• Bend or loop the riser tubes so that they fit between the stop valves and the wall before tightening them with a wrench.

Finishing up

The moment of truth has arrived; you have to turn the water at the shut-off valves and the faucet and test for leaks in the supply lines and fittings leading to the faucet and in the drain lines and fittings. When everything is drip free, you can install the pedestal by simply positioning it properly beneath the sink and securing it to the floor with a wood screw.

Don’t over tighten the pedestal mounting screw because doing so may crack the pedestal base.

The pedestal is held in place with a wood screw.

Last, you can caulk any gaps or voids between the wall and the basin and remove any excess caulk with a wet rug.

INSTALLATION

When fitting a bath you have to plan the order in which you will need to work and install any necessary new pipe work. Measure the bath, pipe and bath waste positions, and mark them clearly on the wall in pencil for easy reference.

You may need to run new 22mm (7/8in) supply pipes or add spurs to the existing runs. Do this before you actually install the bath, in readiness for connecting to the flexible pipes attached to the bath taps or mixer bath / shower tap 1.

ATTACHING THE FEET

Before you do anything else, you need to attach the feet assembly. Turn the bath upside down; keep the bath in its packaging so it doesn’t get scratched. On an old-style, cast-iron bath the feet, normally of a ball and claw design, are simply fitted onto predetermined positions using the bolts provided. A acrylic bath may have a supporting frame, with legs attached, which has to be fitted before the bath is installed. On pressed-steel baths, the legs are either similarly bolted on 2, or stuck to the base by means of an adhesive pad attached to the leg assembly. The leg positions are important, so check with the instructions that you have correctly fitted the leg assembly. You may have to adjust the leg heights to suit an uneven floor when you finally install the bath.

FITTING THE TAPS

It is extremely difficult to fit the taps and the waste and overflow once a bath is in place, so you need to this before you finally position it. Slip a plastic or rubber sealing gasket over the tap or mixer tail, then pop this through the tap hole, so the gasket (which will ensure a waterproof seal) sits between the tap and the bath. Slip a top-hat washer over the tail 3,

then tighten the back nut onto the tail to fix the tap or mixer tap body to the bath 4.

Connect the flexible 22mm (7/8in) pipe tap connector 5.

FITTING THE WASTE AND OVERFLOW

Most baths accept a combined waste-and-overflow unit. The waste is the plughole that removes the bath water, and the overflow prevents the house flooding if you leave the bath running while you have a cup of tea. There are basically two types: a compression unit, and a banjo unit. The banjo unit must have the overflow section fitted before the trap, while the compression unit fits directly to the trap itself.

To fit a banjo waste unit, first attach the overflow pipe to its inlet. Fit the washer seal over the overflow grille. Insert the threaded overflow boss from the underside of the bath through the overflow hole and screw the overflow grille onto it 6.

When fitting the waste outlet, slip the rubber washer over the tail and then insert it into the bath waste hole 1.

TOP TIP – Add a bead of silicone mastic sealant to the washer and waste before inserting into the waste hole 2.

Hold the waste fitting, with its washer in place, beneath the bath waste hole 3,

then screw the waste outlet into it. Wrap several turns of PTFE tape around the thread of the waste fitting 4,

then tighten the bath trap nut onto the threaded tail of the waste 5.

TOP TIP – To avoid damaging the chrome, wrap a cloth around the outlet grille before tightening with grips 6.

ENSURING THE BATH IS LEVEL

As a guide for levelling the bath, make pencil marks along the wall with the aid of a spirit level 7.

When everything is ready, check the final position of the bath with the spirit level along both the length and width 8.

Most height adjustments are made by turning the adjustable legs up or down 9.

Cast-iron baths don’t have adjustable legs, but fine adjustment can be made using the bolts and fine washers or packers.

SUPPORTING THE BATH

Try to bear in mind the amount of weight a bath full of water would weigh, then add your own body weight. As a necessary precaution – and in order not to surprise anyone in the room below with an unannounced visit – we suggest that you strengthen the floor either by fixing 19mm (3/4in) plywood under the bath / shower bath, or simply fit two boards beneath the legs in order to spread the weight over a greater area of floor 10.

The added bonus of doing this is that you reduce the movement levels of the bath between its full and empty states, which enables you to make a much more durable and effective water seal between the bath and wall.

MAKING THE SEAL

Once the movement levels between the bath and surrounding walls have been minimized by supporting the bath properly, it’s time to make the waterproof seal between the bath and the adjacent walls. An effective seal is paramount to prevent damp problems occurring later on.

Ensure both surfaces are completely dust and grease free. Grease shouldn’t be a problem, though, if you’re fitting a new bath to new tiles. To get the right finish on the mastic, cut the nozzle to the required width of mastic. Fit the tube in the applicator and start applying from the corner, if there is one, outwards. Keeping your hand steady, move slowly but continuously in the desired direction 11,

using a clean damp cloth to wipe the sealant. While the mastic is fresh, dip a finger in some soapy water and run it slowly over the mastic to effect a smooth shape and ensure contact with both surfaces 12.

A small bowl of equal quantities of washing-up liquid and water is all you will need. Alternatively, try using the handle of a fork or teaspoon to shape the mastic. Allow the mastic to dry for at least 24 hours before using the bath.

It’s important to use good-quality silicone mastic sealant, as it will incorporate essential ingredients, such as elasticity, colour retention and anti-fungal inhibitors.

Laying the groundwork for your shower enclosure

Before you begin installing a shower enclosure, you need to address a couple of points. First, the shower requires a wood framing to support the walls of the shower enclosure (see Figure 1). If the shower is placed in a corner only, fewer walls must be constructed. In either case, the manufacturer will supply a layout plan for the shower enclosure. Follow it carefully. The wall studs are usually placed closer together than on a standard wall.

Fig 1: Non-bearing partition walls support the shower stall wall panels

One advantage to installing this type of shower enclosure is that the showers wall panels are mounted directly to the wall studs, so drywall or backerboard isn’t necessary. Before the shower stall is installed, you can plan ahead and install wood backing for grab bars. Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions to find out the type of backing that is needed to support a grab bar. In most cases, solid backing of 2-x-6 lumber nailed between the wall studs is required.

Second, you’ll want to hire a plumber to install the rough-in plumbing. The shower enclosure requires a 2-inch drain centered in the enclosure. The rough-in dimensions give the exact measurements for its location. Unless you’re experienced with plumbing, this part of the project is best left to a professional plumber. Have the plumber also install the drain fittings in the shower receptor that meet the local plumbing code requirements.

Installing a shower enclosure

To install a shower enclosure, you need these materials:

»  2-x-4s or 2-x-6s
»  2-inch masking tape
»  Carpenter’s square
»  Dropcloth
»  Electric drill
»  Hammer
»  Hole saw or jigsaw with fine-tooth blade (32 teeth per inch)
»  Level
»  Measuring tape
»  Pliers
»  Putty knife
»  Safety glasses
»  Screwdrivers
»  Silicone sealant (for shower door installation)
»  Utility knife
»  Woodworking tools

Follow these instructions to install a shower enclosure.

1. Open the packaging and identify all the parts and components of the enclosure.

2. Place the shower receptor in the enclosure and check that it’s level and doesn’t rock back and forth.

You may have to install shims under the receptor. Put the necessary shims in place and retest the level of the shower. When the surface is solid, remove the shims one at a time, apply construction adhesive to them, and replace them.

3. Use galvanized roofing nails to secure the receptor to the wall framing (see Figure 2).

Fig 2: The shower receptor is secured to the framing with galvanized nails.

Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation and drive the nails through the predrilled flange holes or place the nail against the top of the flange

4. Position the panels in the enclosure.

Some kits have wall panels that interlock with one another to form watertight seals. In this case, follow the manufacturer’s directions and position the panels in the enclosure in the proper sequence so they can interlock.

5. Check that the panels fit snugly against the wall framing.

The panel at the shower valve end of the enclosure can’t be placed against the studs yet because of the rough-in plumbing.

6. Mark the location of the shower valve and shower riser pipe by making a cardboard template of the location of the valve and shower head pipe.

7. Place the template on the shower enclosure panel and drill a pilot hole at the center of the cutout to guide the hole saw.

Use a hole saw or jigsaw with a fine-tooth saw blade to make the holes for the valve controls and the shower head pipe.

8. Install the shower wall panel on which the shower valve is located.

Check that all panels are properly aligned and square and the shower valve and shower head pipe are properly aligned.

9. Fasten the panels to the wall framing with galvanized roofing nails (see Figure 3).

Whenever there is a gap between the wall stud and the shower wall panel, insert a wood shim before driving the nail.

Fig 3: Fasten the wall to the wall studs with galvanized nails; shim where necessary.

10. Apply silicone caulk to all joints in the shower enclosure

Whenever there is a gap between the wall stud and the shower wall panel, insert a wood shim before driving the nail.

Shower doors are sold as separate items, usually not a part of a shower enclosure kit in most cases but here at victoriaplumb we do sell both shower doors and shower panels together to make a shower enclosure.

Shower doors p rotect the room and floor from water spray — a more permanent barrier than a shower curtain. Carefully read the installation instructions for the type of shower door you choose and identify all the parts and components.

Visit Victoriaplumbs Shower section to view our impressive range of Shower Doors – click here

Bathroom Tip: There are lots of shower door designs, but it makes sense to select a pivot door of some kind, which, when opened, will allow the water to run down inside the enclosure 2, rather than onto the bathroom floor.

Once the wall is built, make a solid, perfectly level base for the shower tray to sit on 3. Use 75 x 50mm (3 x 2in) timber and 19mm (3/in) exterior-grade plywood. Place the shower tray on the base and mark out the plughole 4. Remove the tray. Mark out a section on the plywood to take the trap and waste pipe, then, using a jigsaw, cut this out 5. You can now fit the trap and waste pipe to the shower tray so that it will sit in the void area below it 6. The shower waste can exit through the new wall 7, and be concealed behind a false skirting, which will allow for access if necessary. Fit rodding eyes to the waste pipe so that any blockages can be cleared easily.

I always cut a second piece of plywood to protect the fitted shower tray from possible damage as I tile. To allow space for tiling right down to the shower tray, make the protective cover a loose fit 8.

A stud wall allows for the pipework to be concealed easily within it. The trick is not to clad the rear face of the wall until all the pipework is complete. Use the template supplied with the shower mixer or draw round the faceplate 1, then cut a hole 12mm (‘/in) within the outline. Insert the mixer bracket through the hole and fix it in place with the screws supplied 2. For a solid brick- or blockwork wall, you will need to chase out channels to conceal the pipework. Insert the mixer unit and screw it to the bracket 3. Connect the hot and cold water pipes to the mixer unit 4. Fix a copper pipe to the top of the mixer unit to take the water to the shower head. For most shower heads, it will need to exit through the wall via an elbow fitting, with the tail protruding into the shower enclosure approximately 100mm (4in) from the wall face.

You can now tile the walls. Once the grouting and sealant have been applied, assemble the shower mixer 5 and head. Large shower heads, the ones that give you a real drenching, are secured through the wall and attached to the water pipes by means of a tap connector 6. Finally, fix and hang your choice of door, or a curtain.

Bathroom Tip: Tape over the open tails to avoid any debris blocking the pipes.

INSTALLING A PEDESTAL WASHBASIN

The most commonly used washbasin is the pedestal type. This requires the basin to be secured to the wall while resting on a matching china pedestal, which provides balanced central support. The pedestal incorporates a void for hiding the supply pipes and waste.

Pedestal washbasins are available in lots of wonderful designs and different colours. There is also a wide choice of taps and mixers with plugs or pop-up wastes, so remember to purchase the taps and waste at the same time as the basin, to ensure you get exactly what you want. It makes sense to fit the taps before you install the basin, after which access will be awkward to say the least.

If you are simply replacing an existing pedestal basin, the process is relatively simple. Mark the position of the basin on the wall, using the pedestal to position it 1. Screw the basin to the wall 2, or hang it on brackets depending on the type. Slide the pedestal underneath 3 and connect the supply pipes to the taps 4. Fit the trap to the basin waste 5. Screw in the plughole 6 and attach the plug. Make a mastic seal around the pedestal top and the basin base 7. Once you have done all your tiling and flooring, you can seal where the basin is in contact with the wall and around the base of the pedestal mounted basins.

Sometimes, things are a little less straightforward. Some new mixer taps won’t attach to old tap connectors, and require simple pipework alterations. If you are re-siting a pedestal basin, you may have to alter and conceal the supply pipework and waste pipe. These could be hidden behind the skirting if the wall is studwork, or chased in if the wall is solid. Ensure that rodding eyes for servicing are fitted to both ends of the waste pipe run. Remember, too, that the waste pipe requires a slight fall –a minimum of 6mm (‘/in) to every 300mm (12in) of pipe run. The total pipe run length should not exceed 3m (approximately 10ft).

New pipe runs are best fitted to the wall surface, then boxed in. Take care not to damage the pipes when fitting, and ensure it is detachable for access.

FIXING TO THE WALL

If you are attaching a new washbasin to a solid wall, make sure the screw fixings or mounting brackets are properly anchored with plugs. If attaching to a hollow stud wall, the screw positions may not align with the studs. In this case cut out the plasterboard 8 and screw a softwood batten or piece of plywood to the studs 9 to hold the basin.

TOP TIP To make sure everything will fit perfectly, it pays to temporarily set up your basin and run all your pipework. Then you can disconnect the basin for any wall repairs and floor covering to be completed, before making the final connections and sealing around the pedestal base.

INSTALLING A WALL-HUNG BASIN

As they are usually quite small, wall-hung basins are particularly useful for a small space, such as a separate toilet. Some wall-hung basins are designed to fit into the wall itself, but the plumbing involved with these can be a bit complex. Most wall-hung basins are fitted onto a concealed wall-mounting bracket, which must be fixed to the timber wall studs or a softwood batten attached to the studwork, or to brick- or blockwork. Concealing the pipework may involve running the pipes in the studwork or chasing them into the brickwork.

Alternatively, the basin could be set against a false wall, in which the plumbing is hidden. A chrome waste trap would look better than a plastic one. Or you could conceal the plumbing in a purpose-made bathroom cabinet.

The waste pipe needs to be less than 2m (6ft 6in) long, otherwise the water in the trap could be siphoned out, allowing unpleasant smells from the drain to enter your bathroom. (In the trade, known as ‘pulling the trap’.) If the run has to be longer than this, you’ll need to fit an anti-siphon trap or use larger waste pipe.

For most people, a wall-hung basin needs to be fixed 800mm (2ft 8in) above the floor, with a minimum 1.1m (3ft 8in) clear width to allow for elbow room when washing.

Mark the position for the basin on the wall 1. If necessary, fix an extra noggin at the back of the wall to support the brackets. Position the pipes at the back and through the plasterboard. On the front of the wall draw a level pencil line where the brackets are to be fixed corresponding with the noggin at the back. Screw the brackets in place 2. Attach the taps and waste pipe to the basin 3. Hook the basin onto the brackets 4, then screw the basin to the wall through the holes on the underside. Hold the waste assembly in place and fit. Now enjoy 5.

Where space is especially tight, such as in a cloakroom that makes the most of limited floor space, a well-designed wall-hung corner basin might be the answer. Some designs incorporate a small shelf and even a hanging rail 6. Corner basins are fixed in the same way as ordinary wall-hung basins. Another possibility is a wall-hung basin with an integral unit 7, which allows for the waste pipework to be routed through the wall, rather than having to cut holes in the unit. Also, instead of needing to buy an expensive chrome basin waste fitting, you can simply slide a U-shaped metal sleeve over the plastic pipework, which is also an added support for the basin.

Putting it all together

Nearly all modern toilets are close coupled toilets, that is with a low-level cistern sitting on the pan. They are operated by a siphonic action, which is created by a built-in single or double trap. This makes the toilet flush a lot more quietly than the wash down type with a separate toilet cistern.

First the cistern

All new toilets are supplied with the internal flushing mechanism already fitted together as one piece, so all you have to do is pop it in the cistern and attach the flush handle. Push the threaded end of the water supply pipe through the hole in the base or at the top of the cistern and secure it on the outside with a washer and collar. Tighten by hand, taking care not to cross-thread the collar. Fit the flush handle with a threaded collar and link it to the flushing mechanism 1. Secure the internal flushing mechanism to the base of the cistern with a connecting plate and tighten 2. Insert bolts either side of the plate.

Then the pan

Fit the plastic push-fit connector onto the pan outlet 3. Attach the cistern temporarily to the pan 4 and position the pan with the cistern against the wall 5 ready to mark the fixing positions on the floor. If the floor is a concrete screed or tiled, you will have to remove the pan and drill and plug the holes for the screws. Use non-corrosive screws, such as brass ones.

Remove the toilet cistern and check with a spirit level that the pan is level; use strips of wood or plastic as packers if it isn’t 6. Bed the pan on silicone mastic and screw the fixing screws home 7. Trim any packers flush using a craft knife 8 and clean off excess mastic with a damp cloth.

Bathroom Tips: Wrap lots of PTFE tape around fixing screws to act as a packer. I use long brass mirror screws, which can be finished off with chrome dome caps for effect.

Victoria Plumb advice – It’s very important that you allow for connecting an overflow pipe in case of valve failure. This is done by connecting a 22mm (7/8in) overflow pipe to the cistern connector provided, through an external wall so that it can discharge outside in the event of a problem. Ensure a slight downwards fall to the overflow pipe. If you’re unable to run the overflow pipe through an outside wall, connect it to a bathroom waste pipe. A special purpose-made fitting called a Tundish (above) can be fitted to detect when water overflows from the cistern.

If the toilet has a flush pipe, connect it to the pan. Hold the cistern against the wall to mark the fixing holes. Fix the cistern to the wall with non-corrosive screws and washers 9, drilling and plugging the holes if the wall is solid. Tighten the flush pipe connecting nut to the cistern and connect the 15mm (5/8in) water supply pipe to the cistern float valve with a tap connector 10.

The last thing to do is to fix the toilet seat,via the premachined holes in the pan and the seat assembly kit 11. I always smear a bit of Vaseline or silicone grease on the fixing kit components before completing this task.

Installing a pump shredder unit / macerator

If you wish to install an additional toilet in your home away from the house soil stack, a small-bore waste system may be the answer. Traditionally known in the trade as a ‘chewer and spitter’, this is a pump-and-shredder unit that macerates toilet waste and pushes it through a small diameter pipe, over a considerable distance if necessary.

This system allows you to install a toilet up to 100m (350ft) away from the soil stack, even pumping waste vertically to a maximum of 6m ( nearly 20ft). Its flexibility means you can site a secondary toilet almost anywhere in the house – in a loft or basement conversion for instance or even under the stairs.

The macerator is supplied as a free-standing unit that fits directly behind the pan and below the cistern. It must be wired into an unswitched fused spur outlet. The site needs adequate ventilation, but this can be provided for mechanically if necessary

The unit’s waste pipe is connected to the 100mm (4in) soil stack via a standard 32mm (1 1/4in) strap-on pipe boss, but the manufacturer normally supplies a 22-32mm (7/8 – 1 1/4in) adaptor in case smaller gauge pipework is used. The connection to the soil stack must be made at least 200mm (8in) above or below any other connections.

If you live in a block of flats you may need approval from the management company to install a macerator, and even if you live in a house you should check with your local water authority that there are no restrictions. The unit can be a little noisy, especially on bare floorboards. It switches on automatically when the toilet is flushed and runs for about 10-20 seconds, so some carpeting or matting underneath it might be necessary.

Connecting a Macerator

Slip a large Jubilee clip over the pan outlet then fit the flexible socket of the unit over the pan outlet 1. Position the Jubilee clip over the socket and tighten it using a screwdriver to make a watertight seal 2.

Next, connect the discharge pipework. Insert the discharge elbow in the lid of the macerator until the lugs engage then turn it clockwise 3. Fit the flexible hose supplied with the unit over the elbow 4 and secure it with a Jubilee clip 5. Use another Jubilee clip to connect the other end of the hose to a copper or UPVC waste pipe run to the soil stack 6. You can use 22mm (7/8) diameter pipe, but any discharge pipework longer than 12 metres needs to be increased to 32mm (1 1/4in).

Horizontal waste pipes must have a minimum fall of 1:200 (5mm per metre/ 1/4in per yard) 7. If the discharge pipework runs to a level considerably lower than the macerator unit, the resulting siphoning effect can suck out the water seal in the unit. To prevent this, fit an airadmittance valve at the high point of the pipe run.

Finally, connect the discharge pipework to the existing soil stack using a strap-on boss 8 and 9. Some are selfcutting, but you may need to cut a hole yourself with a special drill attachment. Lag any external pipework.

Electrical Installation

Ask a qualified electrician to connect the unit to an unswitched fused wiring connector protected with a 5 amp fuse, or a circuit breaker set to 30mA.

Switching it on

When all your plumbing and electrical connections have been made, flush once. The motor should run for about 10-20 seconds before switching off. Now you can check that all the seals and connectors are watertight.

Bathroom Tips: Only human waste and toilet paper should be placed in a macerator unit. Bulky, hard or fabric objects will damage the motor and cause blockages, which will then need to be cleared manually. Don’t use any chemicals other than standard cleaners.

Choosing and Installing a Wall Hung Toilet

In a fitted bathroom, the toilet cistern and plumbing are concealed behind a false wall, while the pan is positioned against it – Wall Hung Toilet. As these cisterns do not need to look attractive they are relatively cheap to buy. The plumbing is basically the same as for any other system, except that the flushing handle or button is mounted on the wall.

Bathroom Tips: Ensure that any concealment wall or panelling is fitted with full access for servicing and maintenance.

Choosing and Installing a Bidet

There are two types of bidet: one is known as the overrim supply bidet, the other is called the through-rim supply bidet. The latter is quite a difficult piece of equipment to install, and local water authorities have strict regulations regarding the installation of this type of bidet.

So unless you’re extremely proficient at bathroom DIY, this particular job is probably best left to a professional plumber. When siting a bidet, remember to allow for enough leg room – a minimum of 760mm (2ft 6in) overall.

Fitting an over rim supply bidet

Unlike the rim supply bidet, this over-rim type is simplicity itself to install. If you are using separate hot and cold taps, follow the steps for installing a bath. The majority of modern bidets are supplied with a single hole for a mixer tap with a pop-up waste attached to the tap. The hot and cold supply pipes are simply branched off the existing bathroom plumbing, while the waste pipe discharges like other bathroom fittings into the 110mm (41/4in) soil pipe or external hopper.

Push the top of the pop-up waste down through the waste hole in the bidet, seating it on a layer of sealant. From underneath, screw the bottom of the waste onto the top 1. Position the washer at the base of the tap 2. Fit shutoff valves to the hot and cold supply to the tap. Secure tap to bidet 3. Screw the pop-up waste lever by hand into the waste outlet 4. To insert the pop-up rod, join it with the supplied clamp and screw it tight 5. Adjust the waste bung if necessary 6. Move the bidet into position and connect it to the supply pipes and waste pipe 7. Secure the bidet to the floor and wall in the same way as for a toilet.

Installing a flat-pack bathroom cabinet

Flat-pack systems are no longer just for kitchens it is now possible to create a modern, streamlined look in your bathroom. The cam-and-stud fixing mechanism has revolutionized flat-packs. You simply lock the stud solidly in place by turning the cam with a screwdriver.

Bathroom Tip: Open flat-pack packaging very carefully and store all the components together until you are ready to install. It is not at all unknown for the wrong unit to be sent out, and it will be much easier to change if everything is intact and in the original packaging.

For a workbench, you can set a sheet of 19mm (3/4in) plywood or MDF on a pair of saw horses or stools. Unpack and identify all the parts before you begin work. I always position the parts on the bench like an exploded drawing, and then check which fixings go where. Also, read the instructions a couple of times to absorb all the information.

Familiarize yourself with all the components. To help you understand the construction properly and avoid making errors, carry out a dry run by putting the unit together without any fixings.

Putting the base together

Take the two side panels and identify the pre-drilled cam stud holes. Insert the cam studs in the pre-drilled holes and tighten these using a screwdriver; double check they are in the correct holes 1. Take the base panel and horizontal struts and identify the pre-drilled dowel holes. The dowels should fit snugly, and act as locating pins for the connecting panels. With the unit on its side, attach the side panels to the pre-dowelled base panel and horizontal struts. Pop the cams into the holes, ensuring that the embossed arrow on the cams points towards the end of the panel. To secure the side panels to the base, tighten the locking cams; turn them clockwise using a screwdriver.

Attach the legs to the base 2, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Legs can be adjusted individually to accommodate any unevenness in the floor.

The cupboard shelves and doors are fitted once the whole bathroom is assembled and in position. Two-door units are assembled in the same way as single-door units, but sometimes with the addition of a vertical section, which is screwed to the centre of the unit front edge. This piece is added to strengthen the unit and conceal any gap between the doors.

Hinges

Open the packaging for the door hinges carefully so as not to lose any parts, and leave them in position on the workbench while you work on the door. This will reduce the risk of damage as you work. First, attach the hinges to the pre-machined positions on the door. There should be two tiny indentations, one either side of the cut-out hole, indicating where the screws should go. Carefully drill pilot holes, using a very fine bit; make sure you don’t go right through to the face and ruin the door. Alternatively, you could use a bradawl to create shallow guide holes for the screws. Push the circular part of the hinge into the cut-out hole 3, and drive home the screws. Fix the hinge-mounting plates to the pre-drilled positions on the side panel of the unit 4, but don’t overtighten.

Handles

The door handle positions should be visible on the opposite side to the hinge; look for one or two tiny indentations. Hold a scrap block of wood against the face of the door 5, to make sure breakout doesn’t occur, then drill pilot holes. Align the door handles and screw the bolts in from the back of the door 6. Squeeze an extra quarter-turn on the screwdriver, to create a tight fit and prevent the handles falling off after the first ten minutes.

MAKING AND FITTING A BATH PANEL

The days of a painted hardboard panel fitted with a chrome-coated corner piece to cover the joint are long gone – thank goodness! Today, the list of materials and styles you can choose from is as long as your arm, so you can select one that suits both your taste and pocket.

Bath panels are available as standard stock items in plastic 1,

wood in various finishes such as teak bath panels, new or old pine, limed oak etc, and even granite. A new idea is to incorporate cupboards and shelving in what would otherwise be wasted space 2.

Alternatively, you can make your own panel. Making one from a substrate like plywood, blockwood or MDF is a straightforward job. For instance, you can make a really good-looking panel from a sheet of waterproof or water- resistant MDF, plus some skirting to match the rest of your bathroom. Adding moulding will make it more decorative. For a more creative approach, plenty of exciting materials can be used imaginatively. These include copper, lead, stainless steel, carpet and other textured materials, marble, tiles and mirror.

If you do make your own wooden bath panel, you will first have to build and fit a proper frame to attach it to. Make sure that, once fitted, the bath panels are easily removable in case you need to access the plumbing.

MAKING A BATH PANEL FRAME

Normally made of 50 x 50mm (2 x 2in) sawn or planed softwood, a bath panel frame fits tightly between the lip of the bath and the floor. To calculate the frame size, measure the height and width of the area below the bath. Bear in mind that the frame’s position must allow for the thickness of the bath panel material, which generally shouldn’t protrude beyond the vertical lip of the bath. This allows for the panel top to be sealed with mastic to prevent the ingress of water. Depending on the material, the bath panel can be fixed to the frame using face fixings or secret (concealed) fixings, but remember to ensure access to the plumbing. Construct the frame as a ladder frame. For the long side, screw the four outside pieces together, then add uprights for strength and rigidity 3.

Screw a three- sided end frame to the wall and offer the side frame up to it 4.

Screw the side frame to the end frame 5

and to the wall at the other end. Screw the frame to the floor 6.

Double check that all measurements for the bath panel and skirting are correct before you cut from the outside, or screw from the inside 4. To add mouldings, draw a line of equal margin all around the bath panel. Cut and mitre the mouldings then glue and pin it along the lines. Finally, paint the bath panels (including the edges) with a coat of primer, two undercoats and a topcoat 5.

MAKING AND FITTING A PANEL

Measure the frame area 1

and transfer your measurements to the bath panel material 2,

here it is a sheet of MDF. You can use a jigsaw to cut out the bath panel – if you do, cut a fraction outside the line, then smooth off the excess using a hand plane 3 for a neat finish.

Next, fix the skirting to the bath panel pieces, having first mitred the corner ends. Use PVA glue and pins if attaching from the outside, or screw from the inside 4.

To add mouldings, draw a line of equal margin all around the bath panel. Cut and mitre the mouldings then glue and pin it along the lines. Finally, paint the panels (including the edges) with a coat of primer, two undercoats and a top coat 5.

FITTING A READY-MADE BATH PANEL

Position the bath panels vertically, using a spirit level or plumbline 1,

then mark a line on the floor along the length of both the bath panels 2.

The end bath panel fits behind the front panel at the corner joint. Remove the bath panels, and mark a second line 3mm (/8in) inside the first. Screw battens to the floor along and inside this second line – a minimum of three battens for the front bath panel and two for the end one. For the batten to take the bottom flange, or turned-in edge, of the bath panels, you need to make a rebate. You can form this by placing a strip of packing the same depth as the flange beneath each batten. The packing will butt against the flange, while the batten above it will butt up to the inside of the panel itself. Reposition the bath panels, then drill 4mm (3A6in) pilot holes through each one into the battens 3.

Secure the bath panels to the battens using decorative mirror screws 4.

TOP TIP – If YOU have a router, cut a rebate in each batten to take the bath panel flange instead of using packing.