Hot Tub Plumbing

Motorized/Automated Three-Port Value Systems for Hot Tubs

The three-port valves just described are manually operated. These same valves can have small motors mounted in place of the manual handle for automatic or remote operation.

The value of motorization is that the pool/hot tub equipment is usually located away from the pool and hot tub, making manual operation inconvenient. Some builders place the manual valves near the hot tub rather than at the equipment area; however, a small switch that operates the valve motors is often preferred. A variation of that concept is to locate the motor switch with the equipment and operate it with a remote control unit. The remote might also operate switches for lights, hot tub booster motors and blowers, or other optional appliances.

Installation RATING: ADVANCED

A motorized valve is provided as a single unit and therefore plumbed into the hot tub system as any other valve. Other models of manual multiport valves can be easily motorized by removing the handle and the screws holding the cover in place. A mounting bracket is set on top of the cover, and slightly longer sheet metal screws (to allow for the added thickness of the bracket metal) are used to refasten the bracket and cover to the housing. These longer screws are provided with the motor bracket kits. The machine screws that normally hold the handle in place are left on the shaft. The motor unit mounts on the bracket, held in place by two screws, and the motor shaft slips over the diverter's shaft. The two shafts are secured together by tightening the screws of the diverter shaft.

Wiring diagrams are provided with each type of valve motor and are designed to operate on the standard 110 volts, 220 volts, or from an automated system that has been transformed to 12 or 24 volts.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE: MOTORIZED VALVE REPAIR RATING: ADVANCED

Few problems occur with motorized valves (beyond those discussed in the section "Manual Three-Port Valves"). As mentioned, if the valves are not properly lubricated or become jammed with debris, the motor will continue to try to rotate the valve, finally burning out. The small motors in these units are inexpensive, so if one fails, it is better to replace the unit than to attempt a repair. That said, there are a few other unique repair tips for motorized valves that are worth noting:
• To determine whether the motor has burned out, using your electrical tester, verify that current is getting to the motor. Obviously, if there is no current, the problem is in the switch or power supply and probably not the motor. If you are not familiar with basic electricity, call an electrician. If current is present, remove the motor unit from the valve and try to operate the system. If the motor rotates its shaft normally, then the problem is a stuck valve and not a burned motor. Tear down and repair the valve as described in the previous section.
• If a valve motor is burned out, it can easily be replaced without replacing the entire unit or valve. Although slightly different with each manufacturer, the process usually involves no more than four screws and three wires and will be obvious when you open the motor housing.
• Another potential problem with motorized valves is that if the mounting bracket or screws holding the unit together become loose, the unit will not align correctly with the valve. The motor will then rotate, but the valve diverter will not rotate to match. Obviously, the solution is to tighten all hardware and replace any rusted screws.
• A less frequent problem can be caused by electrolysis or simply a leaking valve. Some makes of valve motor use shafts that are made of galvanized metal or aluminum. If the valve is leaking or the motor housing is not watertight and a combination of moisture and electricity is present as a result, then the action of electrolysis will disintegrate the soft metal of the motor shaft. The motor may continue to operate, but as the shaft dissolves, it will not turn (or not completely turn) the valve diverter itself.

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